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Philadelphia City Paper

New chef at Jerry’s Bar wows with cloud-like gnocchi and beautiful pies

Dominic Episcopo In July of 2008, I reviewed the dinner service at brunch club Cafe Estelle, and marveled at the young chef, Marshall Green, and his pillowy gnocchi. Dinner at Estelle proved short-lived, while the restaurant itself lasted five respectable…

  • Food
  • Pub & Kitchen gambles on a new chef and wins

    Mark Stehle WHOLE ROASTER: Eli Collins’ black-garlic roasted chicken is for sharing, with oven-blistered cherry tomatoes and complicated pommes dauphine “gnocchi.” Without having access to its tax returns, I can’t say for sure that Pub & Kitchen is one of…

    • Aug 22, 2013 - 5:05 am
    • Food
  • Serpico: Everything We’ve Waited For

    Food/Drink Serpico: Everything We’ve Waited For Eleven months ago I wrote a story for City Paper about the star-spangled influx of out-of-town chefs. Philly appeared to be on the precipice of a new era, but things didn’t totally go as…

    • Aug 8, 2013 - 11:52 am
    • Food
  • Serpico: Everything We’ve Waited For

    Food/Drink Serpico: Everything We’ve Waited For Eleven months ago I wrote a story for City Paper about the star-spangled influx of out-of-town chefs. Philly appeared to be on the precipice of a new era, but things didn’t totally go as…

    • Aug 8, 2013 - 6:11 am
    • Food
  • Serpico: Everything we’ve waited for

    Jessica Kourkounis CAVIAR DREAMS: Sturgeon caviar tops a dashi-scented egg custard at Serpico. Eleven months ago I wrote a story for City Paper about the star-spangled influx of out-of-town chefs. Philly appeared to be on the precipice of a new…

    • Aug 8, 2013 - 5:29 am
    • Food
  • No Image
    Finding Summer Bliss at a No-Frills Kitchen Trailer

    “We kill it, we grill it” is the motto at Hooked Up Seafood, a no-frills kitchen trailer parked on cinder blocks next to a parasailing outfit on the long, low-lying road into Wildwood, N.J. A neat row of picnic tables…

    • Aug 1, 2013 - 7:39 am
    • Food
  • Strangelove’s gets Center City acquainted with a fringe-neighborhood brand of gastropub

    Neal Santos BAR NONE: Southern bar snacks like pimento cheese and pickles and a well-crafted draft list set Strangelove’s apart. Asked if opening a gastropub in Center City comes with more pressure than opening one in Fishtown, West Philly or…

    • Jul 25, 2013 - 6:26 am
    • Food
  • No Image
    Fire Destroys Bensalem Nifty Fifties

    The Bensalem outpost of Nifty Fifties, beloved local chain specializing in milkshake-soaked nostalgia, suffered a two-alarm fire early this morning. ABC news is reporting the blaze started in the roof, and there were no injuries, except to my inner child. …

    • Jul 19, 2013 - 4:43 am
    • Blogs
  • Ratchada brings together the big flavors of Thailand and Laos

    Neal Santos ROUNDABOUT: Beef jerky and jasmine-rice sausages are wrapped with romaine, chile and lime in Ratchada’s Thai sampler. A parade of carved elephants still marches trunk-to-tail inside the front door. Traditional dance headdresses, gilded and jeweled and glittering in their…

    • Jul 18, 2013 - 5:09 am
    • Food
  • George Sabatino pleases the Morgan’s Pier crowd

    Neal Santos Boardwalk: Morgan’s Pier’s pork board is home to nose-to-tail rillettes and croquettes. The clouds crept in from Jersey. They hung around the shoulders of the Ben Franklin like wet black gym towels, drip, drip, dripping onto the iron…

    • Jul 11, 2013 - 7:49 am
    • Food

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