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How to Find a Great Philly Cheesesteak

With junk food expert Carolyn Wyman

Where's the best cheesesteak? It's the most common question posed by tourists taking my Taste of Philly Food Tour (tasteofphillyfoodtour.com) at the Reading Terminal Market. And after visiting more than 50 local steak shops to research my Great Philly Cheesesteak Book (Running Press, $15.95), I certainly have my favorites. But like the proverbial charity worker who prefers giving fishing lessons to handing out frozen fish sticks, I'd rather tell people how to identify a great steak shop, thus making it easier for them — and you — to discover your own favorite cheesesteak.

1 Look for shops where steaks are the main focus. Virtually every restaurant, cafeteria, outdoor cart, luncheonette and pizza shop in Philly make cheesesteaks, some of which are excellent — but at these eateries-of-many-options, they don't have to be. A much smaller number of cheesesteak makers specialize in them. And a bad steaks-only business in Philly would be gone in a week.

2 The cheesesteak maker should call this sandwich a cheesesteak or a steak. If their signs or menu refer to it as a "Philly" or "Philadelphia cheesesteak," the place likely caters mainly to tourists (locals know where they live!) who will accept whatever the place serves up. Calling it a cheesesteak or, even better, just steak (which is what the sandwich was called for the 20 years before cheese was added) indicates a certain pedigree or at least familiarity with local steakways that lends confidence.

3 Meat-cutting machines should be on-premises. Although it's now possible to buy rib-eye or top round for cheesesteaks pre-cut, a meat machine in the shop just about guarantees the place is serving these kinds of good-quality primal meats. It also signals they care enough about their meat to cut it themselves.

4 They make their cheesesteaks their way, not yours. Restaurateurs who are always willing to bow to the wishes of the public are desperate for business. Steak businesses who know what they're doing are not. They will not offer toppings that they think ruin their great steaks (like mustard, or mayo or sometimes even Cheez Whiz), no matter how much you might want it. Outlanders might see this as rude or bad business; it is actually appropriate pride in what they do, aka Philly 'tude.

CAROLYN WYMAN leads the Taste of Philly Food Tour (tasteofphillyfoodtour.com), is the copy editor for City Paper, and wrote The Great Philly Cheesesteak Book (Running Press, $15.95), which can be purchased at greatphillycheesesteakbook.com.

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