For an intro to Paraguayan cuisine, look to Arbol Café's lomito. It bears a resemblance to a decked-out Philly cheesesteak — a golden, puffy Le Bus roll stuffed with slices of thin fried steak, a "broken" fried egg, turkey, ham, mayo and melty Port-Salut cheese. It can be made even drippier with additional toppings like fried onions and mushrooms. Arbol even serves a pared-down mini version to accompany your fair-trade, free-refill coffee or traditional yerba mate, served in a gourd cup. Another authentic sandwich is the abuelito: It's composed of a spreadlike slather of flaked hearts of palm with mayo, romaine lettuce and tomato slices, all on soft white bread with the crust cut off. Weekend brunch options include Asado a la Olia, slow-cooked boneless short ribs with butternut polenta, and Albondigas de Carne, meatballs in a light broth served with rice, vegetables and sopa. Open Mon.-Wed., 8 a.m.-7 p.m.; Fri.-Sat., 8 a.m.-8 p.m.; Sun., 8 a.m.-5 p.m.; closed Thu.

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