After years working under the likes of Marc Vetri and Le Bec-Fin’s Georges Perrier, chef Chip Roman has brought the restaurant renaissance to the suburbs. With an adventurous menu rooted in seasonal foodstuffs, his kitchen is turning out plenty of reasons for increased traffic on the Schuylkill Expressway. Pickled ramps accompanied a savory Parmesan panna cotta appetizer, its austere flavor set off nicely by the earthy sweetness of roasted red beets. A Long Island duck “cassoulet” placed a fan of sliced duck breast against a warm salad of fresh beans. A fillet of red snapper in a hot pink rhubarb sauce tasted as bold as it looked, with a Far East influence reinforced by the presence of daikon on the plate. Open for lunch Wed.-Fri., 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m.; open for dinner Mon.-Thu., 5-10 p.m.; Fri.-Sat., 5-11 p.m.; closed Sun.

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