La Cava is spicing up an area of Montgomery County where a handful of stodgy inns and taverns have monopolized the dining scene for the past 200 years. We especially like the delicious and on-point tortilla soup; its almost-bitter tomato and chili broth is layered with skinny, still-crunchy matchsticks of fried tortilla and creamy wedges of avocado. Seafood-themed dinner options include two skinned poblano peppers stuffed with lobster and shrimp, bathed in a sweet almond sauce, and sprinkled with jewellike pomegranate seeds. Another to try: The impossibly plump oysters breaded and served with a remoulade dip — a nice combination of Mexican staples and fish.

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