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 A look at Noble: An American Cookery

categories | Menu Time, Openings
Tuesday, April 28th, 2009 at 4:29 pm
posted by Drew Lazor


As we mentioned earlier today, Noble American Cookery will open at 2025 Sansom next Monday, May 4. Meal Ticket dropped in earlier this afternoon to take a peek at the restaurant that’s been cooking for months in what was formerly Gioia Mia.

Bruno Pouget and Todd Rodgers have worked together forever, along with Noble chef Steven Cameron, at the Jersey Shore’s Blue, which has been open for 11 years. Despite the restaurant being open only from May to October annually, Cameron was nominated in 2008 for “Best Chef, Mid-Atlantic” by the James Beard Foundation. The partners have decided to not return to Surf City this summer, choosing instead to focus their energies squarely on Noble. Rodgers sees the decision as a logical pattern of growth — in many ways, this restaurant is a fully realized urban translation of Blue. (The name Noble, Rodgers says, was coined by a Blue regular who flattered the owners by telling them their meticulous approach to hospitality was a noble pursuit.)

The muted, earth tone-draped space is spread out over two floors. The ground floor features a 20-foot bar crafted out of a solid slab of 45-year-old bubinga, or African rosewood; the piece they sourced was originally 8.5 feet in width, so they broke it down to create a series of four-top tables for the second floor. Up here, around 70 can sit comfortably beneath three gorgeous oversize skylights resting atop the building’s original rafters. Though this won’t be open to the public, the roof is where Cameron will have an herb garden with three 2-by-12-foot planters growing everything from lettuces to herbs like mint, marjoram and dill.

Continuing with the my-how-Blue’s-grown theme, Cameron’s menu here is big on seafood, with sustainable fish like wild Atlantic striped bass, Pocono Mountain river trout and Long Island golden tilefish. Meat eaters should look to East Coast-sourced meats like PA-raised cage-free chicken and roasted duck breast from Hudson Valley (they also serve foie gras from that New York purveyor). There’s an entirely separate bar menu where prices top out at $12; drink-wise, there’s a fully North American selection of beers and wines and a small cocktail list (expect these tipples to be solid, as Pouget’s also a partner in APO Bar + Lounge).

Peruse the latest edition of chef Cameron’s opening menu, as well as the beer, wine and cocktail lists, after the jump.

FIRSTS

GRILLED PORTUGUESE SARDINES      12
sweet & sour vegetables, hot mustard

POACHED WHITE ASPARAGUS      11
domestic summer truffle, Juniper Grove Farm, OR “Redmondo,” fried egg

GRILLED GULF OF MEXICO SHRIMP     13
apple & cabbage, cumin broth

BABY ROMAINE     10
dried tomato & chili, sherry vinaigrette, farmer cheese, torn chips

BARNEGAT LIGHT SEA SCALLOPS     15
watercress, peas, asparagus, avocado, mint

PAN-FRIED VEAL SWEETBREADS     12
cucumber, raw honey, herbed cream

ROASTED BABY GOLDEN BEETS     10
arugula, pumpkin seed, goat cheese, tarragon vinaigrette

PAN-SEARED HUDSON VALLEY FOIE GRAS     15
almond scone & puree, roasted grapes, parsley

BATTER-FRIED WILD ATLANTIC SQUID      12
bibb lettuce, heart of palm, grapefruit

CRISPY DUCK CONFIT     12
chicory, braised fennel, pickled carrot, navel

SIDES

POTATO PUREE     6
olive oil

RICE & ONION PUDDING      6
preserved tomato

MIXED GREENS     6
herbs, fried shallots

PAN-ROASTED MUSHROOMS     7

SPRING VEGETABLES      7
herbed cream

SECONDS

PAN-ROASTED ATLANTIC STRIPED BASS     28
artichoke pasta & broth, fiddlehead, oyster mushroom

ROASTED PENNSYLVANIA CAGE-FREE CHICKEN BREAST     25
morel, pea, noodles, leg confit

RYE-DUSTED ALASKAN BLACK SABLE     27
mussel chowder & salad, pea puree

POACHED LONG ISLAND GOLDEN TILE     24
purple potato salad, shrimp & Smithfield ham dressing, pea tendrils

LEMON-BRAISED GRASS-FED BEEF SHORTRIB     29
sweet onion rice pudding, fava relish

GRILLED FREE-RANGE VEAL FLANK     25
potato & cheese dumplings, spinach, preserved tomato, roasted garlic

GRILLED ATLANTIC MACKEREL     23
fried green tomato, smoked chili mayo

PAN-ROASTED GRASS-FED EYE OF RIBEYE     38
roasted root vegetables, horseradish whip

SAUTEED POCONO MOUNTAIN RIVER TROUT     23
cauliflower puree, girole & shallot pickle, veal jus

ROASTED HUDSON VALLEY DUCK BREAST     26
black quinoa, braised escarole, blueberry smash

BAR

NOBLE BURGER BURGER OR HOUSEMADE VEGGIE BURGER     12
special sauce, cheddar, potato fries, add bacon for $1

FRIED CHICKEN WINGS AND/OR PORK BELLY     11
spicy watermelon glaze, feta

CHICKPEA FRIES      7       
preserved tomato

BEER-BRAISED MUSSELS     10    
Smithfield ham, leeks, grilled bread

BAR BREAKFAST     8
housemade scrapple, pickled eggs, potato fries

POACHED SHRIMP TOSTADA     12
avocado, tomatillo, poblano

SWEETS

LEMON CREAM     8
angel cake, caramel, meringue, berry

CHOCOLATE TART     8
hazelnut ice cream, grilled breadcrumbs, caramelized banana

SPICED CARROT CAKE     8
raisin mincemeat, coconut ice milk

CAPE GOOSEBERRY BREAD PUDDING     8
white chocolate, goose jam

YOGURT BAVARIAN     8
chili chocolate, sesame, herbed strawberry

ASSORTED SORBETS      7   
Grandma Erpelding’s sugar cookies

CHEESES

“Saint Olga” River’s Edge Chevre, Logsden, OR     6
semi-soft stout-washed raw goat, nutty, rich

“MouCo Blu” MouCo Cheese Co, Fort Collins, CO     6
pasteurized soft-ripened cow, flossy, bitter chocolate

“Noble” Wakefield Dairy, Peach Bottom, PA      7
3-year cave-aged raw cow, grassy, floral

All three cheeses     10


NORTH AMERICAN CRAFT BREW BEER

CRAFT BREW DRAFT …
-Two Seasonal Craft Brew Drafts

LOCAL CRAFT BREWS…

YARDS BREWING COMPANY (Philadelphia, PA)
-Philadelphia Pale Ale. crisp & hoppy, bursting with citrus flavors & aromas     $4
-Brawler. a malt forward, ruby colored English style session ale     $4

PHILADELPHIA BREWING COMPANY (Philadelphia, PA)
-Kenzinger. a golden session ale, refreshingly crisp & smooth     $4
-Rowhouse Red. a complex ale with flavors of toasted malt & rye     $4

STOUDTS BREWING COMPANY (Adamstown, PA)
-Pils. a golden pilsner, clean, crisp & thirst-quenching     $4.50
-Heifer-in-Wheat. Bavarian-style unfiltered wheat beer; imparts a flavor & aroma reminiscent of bananas & cloves    $4.50

VICTORY BREWING COMPANY (Downingtown, PA)
-Lager. a well-balanced German style lager     $4.75
-Whirlwind Witbier. both spicy & sublime, greets the nose & tingles the tongue; a refreshing interpretation of the classic Belgian white     $4.75

SLY FOX BREWING COMPANY (Phoenixville, PA)
-Saison VOS. a Belgian-style farmhouse ale; golden orange in color with a dry spicy character  25 oz    $17

LANCASTER BREWING COMPANY (Lancaster, PA)
-Milk Stout. a traditional English style sweet stout; a bold, dark ale bursting with barley dryness & mellowed by hints of chocolate & coffee     $4.25

FLYING FISH BREWING COMPANY (Cherry Hill, NJ)
-Belgian Abbey Dubbel. A classic style abbey, with a fruity nose & generous body; malty in the middle with a clean almondy dry finish     $4.25
-Extra Pale Ale. an extremely balanced beer with a beautiful straw color     $4.25

FLYING DOG BREWERY (Frederick, MD)
-Old Scratch Amber Lager. a malty, mellow beer, with ale & lager character     $4
-Gonzo Imperial Porter. mysteriously dark, with a rich malty body, intense roasted flavors & a surprising hop kick     $6

DOGFISH HEAD CRAFT BREWERY (Milton, DE)
-Indian Brown Ale. a cross between a scotch ale, an IPA & an American brown with notes of molasses, coffee, ginger, raisinettes, & chocolate     $5

SOME OTHER GREAT NORTH AMERICAN BREWS….

SMUTTYNOSE BREWING COMPANY (Portsmouth, NH)
-Shoals Pale Ale. delightfully complex; tangy fruit at the start with an assertive hop crispness, & a long malty palate     $4.50

STONE BREWING COMPANY (San Marcos, CA)
-IPA. medium malt character with a heavy dose of over-the-top hops     $5

TWO BROTHERS BREWING COMPANY (Chicago, IL)
-Domaine DuPage French Country Ale. amber colored, full & sweet up front, with caramel, toasty & fruity characters; finishes with a gentle floral & spicy hop that cleanses the palate     $4.75

SOUTHAMPTON ALES & LAGERS (Southampton, NY)
-Secret Ale Altbier. copper brown color, with a malty flavor & refreshing hop bitterness     $4

ROGUE ALES (Newport, OR)
-Mom Hefeweizen. a Belgian-style blonde; unfiltered fusion of wheat & barley malts, spiced with coriander & ginger  22oz    $15

ALLAGASH BREWING COMPANY (PORTLAND, ME)
-Dubbel. boasts a dark mahogany color with ruby hues & a complex malty taste, the finish is dry with subtle hints of chocolate & nuts     $6

BREWERY OMMEGANG (Cooperstown, NY)
-Hennepin. a Belgian saison-style ale with a nice balance & notes of tropical fruit     $6

BRECKENRIDGE BREWERY (Denver, CO)
-Avalanche Ale. subtly blended pale & caramel malts, a touch of bitter hops  create a refreshing & flavorful anytime beer     $4.50


NORTH AMERICAN WINE LIST

SPARKLING…

Gruet Brut NV, Albuquerque, NM  $10/50
methode champenoise, crisp & full-bodied, with green apple & grapefruit

J Cuvee 20 Brut NV, Russian River Valley, CA  $16/66   
lemon peel, honeysuckle & yeast, followed by fuji apple, grapefruit & toast

2005 Schramsberg Blanc de Noir, Napa, CA  $79
aromas of peach melba, toasted almond, fresh raspberry, & bing cherry; alluring flavors of sweet ginger, white gooseberry & mandarin orange

CHARDONNAY…

2005 Wolffer La Ferme Martin, Long Island, NY  $10/48
ripe peaches & mineral notes; vibrant & medium-bodied, with lush, ripe fruit & elegant acidity

2007 Healdsburg Ranches “unoaked”, Sonoma County, CA  $13/54
fresh grapefruit, lemons, & pear, with aromas of honey, kumquat & fig

2006 Joseph Carr, Napa, CA  $57
tropical notes of citrus & pineapple; layers of fruit flavors, with a long mineral finish

SAUVIGNON BLANC…

2008 Shooting Star, Lake County, CA  $9/41
notes of fig, melon, gooseberry, & a hint of honey, with a palate of fresh grapefruit, gooseberry, tart lime & a crisp acidic finish

2007 Gainey, Santa Ynez Valley, CA  $11/43
honeydew melon, white grapefruit, lime, & guava, with sleek racy citrus, melon & spice

2007 Ash Hollow, Walla Walla, WA  $60
lemon thyme & grass, with a mineral finish

PINOT GRIS…

2007 Erath, Willamette Valley, OR  $11/46  
banana cream pie, hints of lemon & fresh applesauce; juicy flavors of honeydew melon, stone fruits, & palate cleansing acidity

OTHER WHITES…

2007 Ravines Keuka Village, Finger Lakes, NY  $10/41
melon, peach, & mango with floral & mineral notes; fresh fruity off-dry palate, with a nice balance of sweetness & acidity

2007 Bridlewood Viognier Reserve, Central Coast, CA  $58
honeysuckle, orange blossom, melon, butter toast, & rich tropical fruits, with a creamy texture

CABERNET SAUVIGNON…

2006 Ray’s Station, Alexander Valley, CA  $10/41
ripe black cherry, plum, & tobacco, with a lingering vanilla oak finish

2005 Hess Allomi Vineyard, Howell Mountain, CA  $13/57
toffee, vanilla bean, & hickory; black cherry, pomegranate & licorice, with a dark chocolate finish

2006 Joseph Carr, Napa, CA  $61
black currant, smoke, & saddle; a rich accessible palate of dark cherry & ripe plum with a long elegant finish & soft tannins

PINOT NOIR…

2006 Macmurray Ranch, Russian River Valley, CA  $11/49
pretty bouquet, deep black cherry, & subtle oak

2006 Joseph Carr, Napa, CA  $15/61
ripe strawberry & floral rose petals on the nose; flavors of sweet black cherry, cassis, spice, & hints of cinnamon, finishing smooth

2007 Siduri, Willamette Valley, OR  $63
red cherry & mulberry fruit, with hints of spice & distinct floral character

MERLOT…

2005 Tin Roof, North Coast, CA  $6/22
black cherry & plum, tobacco, herbal spice, & chocolate, with a long rich finish

2005 Paso Creek, Paso Robles, CA  $54
black cherry, tea leaf, plum & cedar

SYRAH…

2006 Bridlewood, Central Coast, CA  $8/34
spice, earth, & dark berrym with violets & plum

2004 Red Diamond, WA  $9/38
raspberry jam, leather, & pepper, with a floral spice & honey finish

2005 Kinton, Santa Barbara, CA  $54
racy plum & dark berry, cherry, black pepper & smoky dark chocolate

OTHER REDS…

2004 Jubileo Rosalio Rhone Blend, Baja, MX  $9/41
earthy nose & mouth filling fruit, with soft tannins, & a medium length finish

2006 Pedroncelli “Mother Clone” Zinfandel, Dry Creek Valley, CA  $41notes of banana & cherries, with blueberries & raspberries


COCKTAILS

the French â€75
gin, sugar, lemon juice, sparkling wine, lemon peel

the TI Jean
rye whiskey, lemon juice, spearmint, house-made ginger beer

the Chimayo
tequila, lemon juice, crème de cassis, apple cider

the Blood & Sand
scotch whiskey, Italian vermouth, cherry heering, orange juice

the Vesper
vodka, gin, Lillet blonde, orange bitters, lemon peel

the Alaska Man’s Luck
pisco, aquavit, French vermouth, St. Germain, honey

the Sazerac
rye whiskey, cognac, sugar, Peychaud’s bitters, absinthe wash, lemon peel

the Philadelphia Fish House Punch
rum, cognac, peach brandy, black tea, seltzer


6 Responses to “A look at Noble: An American Cookery”

[...] American Cookery is set to open Monday, May 4th. Drew Lazor and Michael Klein have been through and taken some photos. Check em out, lots of pretty [...]


Funny, that long piece of bubinga wood looks strikingly like several pieces of food that were in the recently closed Maia Restaurant in Villanova.

Glad they have a new home.


Killer beer list! I dig the local heavy lineup


Actually that Bebinga is coming from Hearn Hard Wood near Longwood Garden, and we put it together in the space.
Enjoy the space.
B



[...] Steven Cameron, who opened Noble: An American Cookery back in May, just dropped a note to officially share word of his October departure from the Sansom Street [...]


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