Staff Blog
Thien Ngo forgoes retirement to cook at Coquette
posted by Felicia D'Ambrosio
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| forkrestaurant.com |
In January, Thien Ngo, executive chef and eight-year veteran of Old City staple Fork, announced he was hanging up his apron and retiring to the balmy shoes of his native Vietnam.
In less time than it takes to buy an airline ticket direct to Tan Son Nhat, Ngo turned up at Fifth and Bainbridge, cooking at Cary Neff’s bistro Coquette.
Neff told The Inquirer’s Michael Klein that Ngo “got bored and wanted to get back to work.” Since his arrival, Ngo has added “Specks” to the menu, small $2.50 snacks to enjoy alongside a glass of wine or beer. They include an edamame salad, Mexican pork and rice albondigas (meatballs) in guajilla salsa and crisp fried smelts.
Larger plates incorporate global flavors and top out at $18. Duck breast is glazed in maple syrup and served over polenta; a half or whole rack of babyback ribs are slicked with hoisin, honey and five spice; a whole fried fish -— usually bronzino or snapper — is served over crunchy Peruvian slaw; hanger steak is marinated in chimichurri and served with yucca fries and spinach.
Bivalve lovers can still snag a seat at the raw bar for a great deal on half-shell oysters, which are just a buck each all night, every night.
Coquette Bistro and Raw Bar, 700 S. Fifth St. 215-238-9000; coquettebistro.com
