Pan-seared duck breast with beets and chard at Mémé.

Photo l Michael T. Regan

After trudging through the license transfer process for the last three months, Mémé can now offer glasses of wine and beer with their lovingly prepared dishes.

Chef/owner David Katz celebrated the new acquisition is his typically bombastic style last night: “I’m working on this food, giving it everything I’ve got, and people are coming in here with a $7 jug of Yellow Tail, and it all tastes like shit!”

“If you want to be a real restaurant, you gotta be able to offer people everything,” he added. “It’s been killing me for the last three months. I never wanted to do the BYO thing.”

Though some customers who adored toting their own wine may be hesitate at the change, the fair-priced wine list should settle them down. Bottles range in price from a fresh, dry $29 Pares Balta ros de pacs ‘07 from Spain, to the chef’s favorite, Merry Edwards pinot noir ‘06 from California’s Russian River Valley, $86.

A choice of of wines by the glass will always include one $6 red and white, and a few half-bottles allow two people dining out to try several wines with their various courses. In particular, the 375 ml. bottle of Elio Perrone moscato d’Asti ‘07 ($28), with its subtle sparkle and heady pear aroma, could be paired with both a rich appetizer like the foie gras tart with seasonal fruit and onion, or any of the desserts. 

Though the food at Mémé is lush and sensual, a quirky, irreverent style pervades the place. Though certainly outspoken in his opinions, Katz takes his food and juice absolutely seriously. Inquirer critic Craig LaBan’s review on Mémé is printing this Sunday.  The staff had eyeballed LaBan (Katz has been reviewed before, at M restaurant), and Katz was fairly confident the food and service were stellar. Still, “I’m nervous, man,” he said seriously. “It’s a big deal.”

Though LaBan’s doling out of bells is indeed a big deal, Mémé has already charmed the locals with their deft touch to gorgeous ingredients. Not even the mighty Inky scribe could cool their ardor now.

Mémé, 2201 Spruce St., 215-735-4900, memerestaurant.com

A foie gras tart and a glass of Moscato: Mémé gets their liquor license

This entry was posted on Wednesday, January 28th, 2009 at 1:00 pm and is filed under Chef Salad, Menu Time. You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed. You can leave a response, or trackback from your own site.