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Showing articles 1 to 10 of 66 by David Snyder

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February 25th, 2010

On a Boat

Michael Schulson focuses on flavor at his stylish 13th Street hang.

Instead of making Asian dishes accessible by dumbing things down, Sampan heads in the opposite direction — more flavor. The results are often delicate and beautiful.

by David Snyder

February 4th, 2010

Broad Strokes

Choosy diners probably won't choose Chew Man Chu.

These Asian plates are meant to be shared — but they're also designed to be accessible for unadventurous eaters. In other words, if authenticity is your sole yardstick, Chew's food will fall short.

by David Snyder

January 14th, 2010

Soup Opera

Pho Saigon

Dulling ethnic flavors for Westerners is nothing new. But serving Americans categorically different food than what's ordered, with no notice? That's something else entirely.

by David Snyder

January 7th, 2010

Amish Mash

MidAtlantic's chaotically organized regional menu is akin to culinary rumspringa.

Simple food should not be this complicated.

by David Snyder

December 24th, 2009

Pie's the Limit

Stella may well redefine how Philly eats pizza.

I watched the chefs inspect each pie with an intensity akin to clerics poring over religious tablets. Does the cornicione have the proper width (an inch to an inch and a half)? Does the puff of the crown rise from the surface? Are the topping levels and colors right?

by David Snyder

December 10th, 2009

No Thanks

NoVi

The space has been brightened up. But for now, NoVi is a NoGo.

by David Snyder

December 3rd, 2009

Grounded

The subterranean terra is high on our minds.

What sets this chef apart is his ability to stack seams of flavor and texture without burying the elemental simplicity of a dish.

by David Snyder

November 12th, 2009

Tap'd Out

Tazia

They seem to want to cook something for everyone, perhaps motivated by the diverse clientele milling about the nearby Convention Center, but this blanket approach stifles Tazia’s identity.

by David Snyder

October 29th, 2009

Burn Notice

Fuel

A menu that offers no dish exceeding 500 calories sounds more like part of a sadistic Top Chef challenge than the centerpiece of a real-life restaurant — especially when said restaurant is owned and run by a radio DJ.

by David Snyder

October 22nd, 2009

More Than Words

Marigold Kitchen's Robert Halpern is not a mad scientist. He's a damn good chef.

Halpern does not rely on forward-thinking cookery for every dish. On the contrary — some of his most impressive work features traditional flavors and ingredients. But that doesn't mean the chef doesn't keep some tricks in his toolbox to stay on top of the ever-changing culinary world.

by David Snyder

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