Mass A-Peel

Blue Bananas Café

by David Snyder

One restaurant rule that's served me well in my 20 years of dining out: If a place has the word "banana" in its name, it's not a promising sign for the food. It's just silly, more appropriate for college hangs or improv clubs than real-deal eateries. But there are exceptions: South Street's Blue Bananas Café proves that a place named after the tropical treat can indeed bear fruit.

Chef/owner Rod Millwood opened Blue Bananas (a name inspired by the blue mist that covers the mountains of his native Jamaica, as well as the nation's cash crop) in Sonam's former space next to the Laff House comedy club, which he manages. The décor hasn't changed much, but when the sun warms your back through the floor-to-ceiling glass façade as you descend into the dining room, the scent of jerk and the soothing echoes of "Stir It Up" are good signs of what awaits.

Though it's his first restaurant, Millwood knows how to deliver satisfying island grub. Finely diced onions and peppers gave complimentary mango salsa, served with fried plantains, a distinctive bite. The jerk chicken, which boasted a winning interplay of moist meat and crispy skin, radiated with layers of dark, exotic spices. Hours of marinating and slow cooking helped brown stew chicken reach a pleasant depth. A side of cabbage slaw carried just enough sweetness to balance its mild acidity. The hint of heat and vinegary bite of greens made them the perfect match for sweet yams.

Millwood's tight-lipped on what gives all these offerings such flavor — from his savory Jamaican rum punch to the seasonings in his small and surprisingly bold jerk burger, it's all secret. With the exception of the fiery jerk shrimp app, spice levels here are relatively tame. Masochists may complain, but I respect that Millwood turns down the heat so children can also enjoy the food.

As one expects with bananas, there were a few slips. The goat curry, though wonderfully flavored, had too many small, hidden bones. The oxtail in a stew was tough. The crab cakes contained too much filler to justify paying $19.95.

That dish aside, one of Blue Bananas' biggest strengths is its prices. Most entrées cost between $13 and $15, and portions are generous, meaning you can enjoy the flavors of the Caribbean without going on the dole.

(david.snyder@citypaper.net)

Blue Bananas Café | 223 South St., 215-351-0113, bluebananascafe.com. Wed.-Thu., noon-10 p.m.; Fri.-Sat., noon-11 p.m.; Sun., 2-9 p.m. Starters, sandwiches and salads, $4-$19.95; entrées, $12.95-$19.95