The Fountainhead

Passyunk Avenue's Izumi is a sure sign South Philly's contemporary restaurant scene has arrived.

by David Snyder

Michael T. Regan ALL-ACCESS BASS: Izumi chef/owner Corey Baver's miso-marinated sea bass entrée sits pretty in a bed of congee, a traditional rice porridge.

East Passyunk Avenue has been quietly evolving into a formidable restaurant corridor. Killer tacos and a hip vibe make Cantina Los Caballitos a place where locals flock to see and be seen. Just typing the phrase "Ravioli al Cioccolato Ripieni di Coniglio" gets my mouth watering for Le Virtù's rabbit-filled cocoa pasta. Even pub fare on this diagonal byway gets a refreshing upgrade at Lucky 13, which cranks out inspired eats like the Ace of Spades vegan sandwich.

Despite these and other local gems, though, diners from far afield still find South Philly a hard sell compared to the narcotic allure of hot spots in the more fashionable Center City ZIP codes.

Thanks to Izumi, a contemporary Japanese sushi bar that recently opened on P'unk Ave, that's about to change.

At first blush, it may seem odd to open a sushi bar in a neighborhood known more for red gravy than red tosaka (Japanese seaweed). But for co-owners Corey Baver (formerly in the kitchens at Morimoto, Buddakan and Philadelphia Fish & Co.) and his fiancée, Lynn Rinaldi, that was the whole point. Tired of having to trek to Morimoto and Sagami in South Jersey to enjoy quality sushi, the couple decided to open a place of their own.

"We felt that it was time for a Japanese contemporary sushi bar," says Baver, also Izumi's chef. "We just thought this area was ready."

They would know. Rinaldi is a lifelong area resident; Baver's lived in Philly for 15 years. And, more importantly, just a few doors down from Izumi, they both run Paradiso, a contemporary Italian that opened on East Passyunk in 2004.

The sophisticated, modern design of this 38-seat BYOB alone is enough to draw a crowd. Dark walnut tables alongside red bay windows look out onto the famous singing fountain after which the restaurant was named (Izumi means fountain in Japanese). A surprisingly quiet open kitchen is surrounded by a cool marble bar; underneath, warm tiles reflect soothing lights that slowly change colors against the hypnotically tranquil hum of jazz-house electronica.

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Yet another aspect of Izumi's appeal is the kitchen's attention to quality. Baver has fish flown in from Japan daily. If it's not up to par? "It goes back," Baver says. It takes confidence in your product, for example, to serve a raw scallop. This bivalve is an excellent metric; if the kitchen serves a slice that's even slightly old, you'll notice. Izumi's scallop, which I tried sashimi style on two separate visits, delivered the reassuringly firm texture and delicate sweetness you find only when it's perfectly fresh.

Other raw offerings are equally delicious. When the chirashi, a seafood medley over rice, hit our table, I had to duel with more than one set of chopsticks to capture the last chunks of yellowtail and the huge, precious spheres of deliciously salty roe.

When you see seaweed salad on the menu, you probably expect the standard spinach-like kelp common to most sushi takeouts. But Baver sought out more regional varieties to build his visually striking multicomponent version, which features vibrant red tosaka seaweed and an opaque variety that has a look and delicately crunchy texture reminiscent of jellyfish. Though describing it as a "Japanese pizza" on the menu suggests that it's a dish designed to appeal to the American palate, the okonomiyaki is a traditional tempura flour pancake that Izumi loads with Napa cabbage, calamari, mussels and crabmeat and tops with a wonderfully flavorful tonkatsu, a caramel-y sauce meant specifically for this standard.

Baver's disciplined command of flavors makes Izumi a true destination spot. Although it was challenging to negotiate the beautifully fanned avocado pieces surrounding a blossom of sliced pink tuna, it was worth an embarrassing fumble or two (or three) to experience this classic combo pumped up with a delicate orange miso-yuzu vinaigrette. The kitchen shows commendable restraint in not allowing the jalapeños in another vinaigrette to overwhelm lightly seared slices of salmon. The complex remy roll shines with layers of fresh, savory flavors that are punctuated by addictively smoky bonito flakes. These magical shavings also make a cameo in the purifying miso soup, which Izumi fortifies with seaweed and tofu.

Baver confesses that sushi and sashimi may still be unfamiliar to some, so he's also stocked his menu with items that have a slightly broader appeal, many of which appear on the hot side. My favorite dish on this end was the miso-marinated sea bass. The congee, a porridge-like Japanese risotto in which the fish sits, imparts a wonderful chorus of smoke, nuts, earth and sweetness. But because the accompaniment is not heavy, the delicate, nuanced flavor of the bass still shines through.

Michael T. Regan

Though expertly prepared, I'll confess that I won't return to the lobster tempura: By design, the rich batter eclipses the delicate, sweet flavors you want when you shell out for this crustacean. But you'll regret not ordering the soy-glazed baby back ribs. Gravity and a gentle turn of the wrist is all it takes for the meat to spill from the bone. (You can thank four hours of braising in a house-made marinade for the surprising, delicate flavor structure.) Bring the 2004 E. Guigal Cotes du Rhone red for these mini racks — the wine's gamey flavors are a perfect complement, and it's on sale at the PLCB for only $11.99.

A note to BYOers: You'll need to keep a watchful eye on the way Izumi handles your bottle. I have no problem with servers keeping wine at the bar to avoid table clutter, but they're prone to swoop in unannounced and deliver a hyper-generous pour before you even notice they're there. Baver says he wants everyone to have a full glass, and I appreciate the restaurant's commitment to service (it was otherwise spotless). Such overzealousness, however, makes it difficult to keep track of just how much you're drinking.

Besides, Baver doesn't need to keep his guests lubricated for them to have a blast. With food this good, Izumi could pour you water out of the singing fountain and you would hardly care.

(david.snyder@citypaper.net)

Izumi | 1601 E. Passyunk Ave., 215-271-1222, izumiphilly.com

Hours: Lunch, Tue.-Sat., 11:30 a.m.-3 p.m. Dinner, Tue.-Thu., 5-10 p.m.; Fri.-Sat., 5-11 p.m.; Sun., 3-9 p.m.

Sushi and sashimi: $3.50-MP, Maki: $4-$14, soups, salads and small plates: $5-$12, large plates: $15-$50

BYOB

Wheelchair accessible