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Du Jour Symphony House

by David Snyder

My father-in-law, who lived to be 91, believed the key to longevity was small portions — and the occasional nip of Yuengling Porter. If he were alive today, he'd applaud Philly's small-plates restaurants — though he wouldn't tolerate their occasional pretentiousness. But I have a feeling he'd be a fan of Du Jour.

Moshulu's Martin Grims founded Du Jour nine years ago in Haverford Square as a gourmet takeout. After adding breakfast, lunch and dinner service, Grims has brought the café to Symphony House on Broad.

I love the concept, which places bordering-on-upscale fare in a hyper-casual setting. The décor smooths the transition between the extremes — black Wenge wood tables with white scoop chairs deliver a sleek cafeteria feel while still maintaining a sense of sophistication.

Corporate chef Ralph Fernandez and executive chef Mike McGovern have streamlined Du Jour's offerings for fall to make it more approachable than the opening menu — gone is the foie gras PB&J you might've heard about. Turns out I could've put such savory elements to use, as many of the plates I tried were overly sweet. A lobster corn fritter was overwhelmed by a cloying General Tso's sauce. Butternut squash soup had a rich texture and nice heat, but adding maple syrup was overkill. Had the prosciutto-wrapped Maine diver scallop not been too salty, it would've succumbed to a sugary balsamic glaze.

That said, from a price vs. quality perspective, a number dishes were impressive. My favorite was the grilled, ginger-soy-glazed yellow fin tuna. A crème fraîche on the accompanying saffron orzo lent the dish unexpected depth.

Though the Roadhouse Fries come from Brew City, they hit the mark. Served in a cone rack with smoked ketchup and truffled parmesan aioli, the spuds melted the instant your incisors breach the crispy tempura coating. The half-pound prime steak burger, developed by Ashley Foods in North Philly, is one handsome hunk of extra-juicy prime chuck. I also enjoyed the Kennett Square mushroom mix that made up the topping on a tasty flatbread.

Du Jour's beer list, too, was pleasant — I opted for the refreshingly floral Ballast Point Yellow Tail Pale Ale. Had they carried it, though, I definitely would've finished up my night with a nip of Yuengling Porter.

(david.snyder@citypaper.net)

Du Jour | Symphony House, 440 S. Broad St., 215-735-8010, dujourmarket.com

Hours: Mon.-Sat., 7 a.m.-10 p.m.; Sun., 9 a.m.-9 p.m.

Breakfast, $4-$14; lunch and dinner, $6-$16

Wheelchair accessible