Pumpkin Beers

Up and Autumn

by James Saul

1 Dogfish Head Punkin Ale

Organic farmer, Vermont House representative and seriously moustached dude Will Stevens provides the pumpkins that give Wolaver's ale its hearty flavor. The solid backbone of autumn spices will go well with a savory meal or your Mischief Night pregaming — just make sure the TP you're using for tree décor is made from 100 percent post-consumer materials.

A perennial local favorite, Emperor Weyerbacher smites his subjects with a mighty scepter of wicked pumpkin flavor. A mix of cinnamon and nutmeg offer up slice-of-pie sentimentality without overwhelming the palate with dessert vibes. At 8 percent ABV, this Easton-based despot is eager for seasonal justice, so don't be thrown off by its altogether-pleasant aftertaste.

With 150 pounds of pumpkin used in each batch, Elysian Night Owl swoops down with mega flavor and a bright finish. It'll taste great washing down stuffing or any number of other Thanksgiving side dishes. At $10 for a 22-ounce bottle, it's a little classy in the price department, but there's no denying the badass owl on the label.

With its unapologetic ale identity, this seasonal offering from New Hampshire's much-celebrated Smuttynose nearly removes the "pumpkin" from the "pumpkin beer" equation. This is specialty brewing at its finest — the quaff's subdued character is a welcome change from its sweeter rivals.