Small Bites

Little Vittles

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Say it's a secret and then you're pretty much stuck telling it. So when we found out that an underground supper club was throwing dinner parties on the sly, we debated sharing the information. First, the underground restaurant movement, big in Cali and New York, hasn't hit Philly just yet. But Northeastern Pennsylvania's Fork in My Hand has plans to infiltrate our culinary back alleys soon enough. The Fork Chef is dealing out food on the down low for a select few in the Poconos and the surrounding counties of Lackawanna and Luzerne. You must be invited to attend, and all members are screened carefully to make sure they're not, like, us. We read their manifesto at forkinmyhand.com, especially that part about not betraying the cause. Needless to say, we're not in the club. Especially after this gets out. —Kelly White

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Whether it's a recipe for a Japanese-style noodle salad with smoked salmon and avocado or instructions for a "Pan Bagnat" with tuna, hardboiled egg, black olives, green peppers and other delicious veggies (pictured), mediterrasian.com gives you the tools to make flavorful, filling and healthy food. Getting started is simple, with lists of the gadgets you should stock in your kitchen and the staples you'll want to keep in your pantry. You can also browse an archive that conveniently lists recipes by type of dish or by country of origin. And if you're curious about the science behind the cuisine, the site also has a section dedicated to studies and research about the health benefits of Mediterranean and Asian cuisine and lifestyle. —Amanda McKenna

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I hear the same query over and over during the many hours I spend waiting tables at a local steakhouse: "Which steak has the least amount of fat?" But here's the real question: When did fat become such a dietary dilemma? In Jennifer McLagan's full-flavored new book, Fat: An Appreciation of a Misunderstood Ingredient (Ten Speed Press, $32.50), she assures all scrutinizers that the slandered substance is actually a vital asset to your diet (not to mention that few ingredients can carry flavor like it). From greasy bacon, cracklings, ghee and lard to juicy duck and caul fat, the 25-years-of-experience chef's work is a sophisticated comfort-food bible, fully equipped with recipes for risotto Milanese, duck rillettes, bone marrow crostini and choux paste beignets. It'll have you screaming for a fatty cut on your next meaty excursion. —Amy Strauss

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Sweet potato pie is everywhere year-round — but what about pumpkin? The elusive nutmeg-laced delight stays in hiding until October. Until then, I've found a taker in the Pumpkin Cheese Pie at Beiler's Bakery (open Wed.-Sat. at Reading Terminal Market, 12th and Arch streets, 215-351-0735). The counter lady will wave away your skepticism of the swirled cream cheese layer on top of the familiar pumpkin custard — she implored me to try it, insisting I would like it. With the cheese, there's no need for a dollop of whipped cream here. It's lighter on the gourd than I'd like, but the buttery crust and spiced-right sweetness should see me through this Indian summer. —KW