State of the Union

An ambitious market concept has yet to fulfill its potential.

by Trey Popp

If I worked at Jefferson University Hospital, no news could have been better than the opening of Union Gourmet in May. One glance past the generous sidewalk tables and through the tall glass windows would have clinched it. The spacious interior sparkles under stylish track lighting and looks about as clean as a freshly prepped operating room two blocks away. There are spotless cold cases, an antipasti bar, a barista station and wooden boxes full of fruit next to chilled shelf upon chilled shelf of high-end sodas, juices and iced teas. Goodbye, hospital food court, I'd have rejoiced. Hello, high-end sandwiches and chef-prepared hot plates.

Boy, do I feel for Jefferson. Rarely does an eatery with this much potential fall so far short of it.

My first visit was a sandwich run. The offerings looked fetching when blown up to poster size under the crisp white lights. Alas, not so much in their cellophane-entombed form. You'd think that with two people behind the counter, and no other customers, a sandwich could be made fresh to order. There are probably a thousand delis in town that do this, but Union Gourmet is not one of them. I don't care how much meat you throw in — if I want a sandwich that's been suffocating for hours while the mayo sogs up the bread, I'll go to the airport.

The salad I tried the next time suffered even more from this treatment. Wilted greens, far-from-fresh cucumbers, a gloopy mayo dressing — all that was missing from this $7 catastrophe was Ashton Kutcher telling me I'd been punk'd.

The coffee service verges on false advertising. Reassuring bags of La Colombe sit on a nearby shelf, but the java I tasted was seemingly brewed by someone who hates full-flavored coffee.

To be fair, the dessert case fared better. And despite the excess cheese and a heavy hand with the truffle oil, I liked the thin-crust pizza topped with splendidly caramelized onions and gourmet mushroom varieties.

But owners Felix Maietta and Theresa Fera-Maietta, who also run the Down Town Club, could be doing so much more with this handsome space. They could start by rethinking their staffing model. Smiling isn't enough. Hands should be out of pockets and busy making sandwiches to order. They could continue by ensuring good coffee — and prepared foods that don't overstay their welcome in the cold case. Until then, sadly, the Jefferson Hospital food court has little to fear.

(t_popp@citypaper.net)

Union Gourmet Market & Café | Western Union Building, 1113 Locust St., 215-238-8800, uniongourmetmarket.com | Hours: Tue.-Fri., 8 a.m.-8 p.m.; Sat., 9 a.m.-8 p.m.; Sun., 9 a.m.-4 p.m. | Pizzas, $6.95-$11.95; Salads, $5.95-$7.95; Sandwiches, $6.25-$7.95