Vegan Takes on Classic Sandwiches

Mock of the Town

by James Saul

Leave shit on a shingle to the greasy spoons — vegan cream chipped beef is a seitan worshipper's dream. Strands of seitan in a savory tofu cream with shiitake mushrooms are poured over two multigrain slices. Soggy bread never tasted this good.

Many veggie burgers are a textural nightmare, with mushy carrot chunks and a sketchy exterior ruining the experience. But the puréed sunflower seeds in A Full Plate's Sun Burger create a smooth, nutty patty that won't weigh you down. A side of homemade pickles adds to the meal's down-home charm.

A generous heaping of tempeh bacon makes the Mugshots BLT hog heaven for imitation meatheads. Slices are piled up with the L and T, then smashed between pieces of wholesome seeded bread carrying a thin layer of vegan mayo. The weekend crowds can get crazy, but it's worth the wait.

Chunks of pepper-encrusted wheat meat make up the brunt of the Abbaye's "steak." Fresh-grilled tomato and onion add crucial moisture. While dairy-friendly eaters can add Gruyere and garlic aioli to the sandwich, vegans aching for "cheese" will have to settle for Govinda's or Gianna's.