Bob Mentality

For the past 15 years, Bob's Diner has been run by a guy named Jim.

by Ptah Gabrie

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Published: Feb 19, 2008

Ptah Gabrie (CLICK IMAGE FOR LARGER VERSION)

"You're waving to me today? Good girl," says Jim Evans to a friendly kid sitting across from his workspace at Bob's Diner in Roxborough. But the pleasantries are a temporary diversion: Before long, he's back in his zone, cleaving through a mountain of home fries with his right hand, handling an omelette with his left. "Sausage?" he calls out, just before a sizzling patty hits the heat.

The owner's movement never quite ceases, though he periodically turns his head to establish eye contact with whomever he speaking to. Her frenetic boss is a phenomenon that server Trisha Harder (pictured) describes as "poetry in motion."

"People enjoy watching the action," says Evans, tossing down his butter spoon with a flick of the wrist.

The audience-friendly nature of Evans' cookery separates Bob's from greasy spoons that place all the real action behind the safety of a swinging door. Chat up any regular, though, and you'll realize that there's more to this place than the proximity of the equipment.

Evans, who managed a Toys "R" Us before getting into the biz, first met former owner Bob Harmer through his brother, a regular. He soon learned Harmer wanted to sell. After just two meetings, the men settled.

Evans got the keys on Feb. 1, 1993. As it stands today, just weeks past his 15th anniversary as owner, Evans has been unable to open the diner's doors only once — and that's because his wife hid his car keys one morning during the infamous blizzard the year he took over.

Bob's is built in the portable Jerry Mahoney style: a glinting metal exterior, black vinyl booths and well-loved counter stools. Depending on who you talk to, the structure is between 60 and 65 years old. Legend has it the building used to live downtown, but at some point, it was hauled by a flatbed truck to Ridge and Leverington. Locals say that Bob's came to rest at its present location — between a church and a cemetery — some time later.

The diner's history also includes flirtations with fame. It was featured prominently in the 1988 film Stealing Home. The diner has appeared in local ads; politicos like Ed Rendell, John Street and Michael Nutter have all made appearances. Bob's was also one of the first restaurants in the city to go smoke-free.

Evans, who gets his meats and veggies from farms in the Pennsylvania countryside, says the Eye Opener is his most popular breakfast special: two eggs made to order, toast, seasoned home fries and a choice of bacon, sausage, scrapple, ham or pork roll. The menu also features lunch and dinner items — everything from burgers to grilled tuna and fresh salmon. Evans credits sous chef Abe Karetny (his soon-to-be nephew-in-law) with making improvements to Bob's offerings.

But notoriety and menu size do not a diner make. Rather, it's the faces that fill out the booths: regulars young and old; those who sit by Evans and shoot the breeze while he's ripping through tickets. It might be true of any diner worth its weight in apple pie — but that doesn't mean the stories at Bob's aren't worth telling.

Many patrons have 20-plus years of eating at the diner under their belts, and most of the staffers are longtime associates, as well. Harder has worked as a server here for 31 years; there are menu items named after her grandchildren.

On a recent visit, a former employee who left the diner under dubious circumstances sat at the counter enjoying a plate of scrambled eggs.

Then there's "The Breakfast Club"— the self-appointed name for a group of early-morning regulars. If a member doesn't show up on time, it's not uncommon for the rest of them to knock on doors to make sure's everything good.

Twenty years ago, Leonard Cunningham was driving a truck when he found himself passing through Roxborough — starving. But he knew the neighborhood was predominantly white, and was unsure how people would react to a black man. But something about the spot clicked — he's been coming back for breakfast ever since. "The diner is an exact example of what democracy is all about," says Cunningham, 85. "People of every race and every economic situation come in ... [but] once they're here, it's just one big diner."

(ptah.gabrie@citypaper.net)

Bob's Diner, 6053 Ridge Ave., 215-483-9002.

 

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