Salmon Stops

In The Pink

by Gary M. Kramer

The Lox, Stock and Bagel at Rachael's is smokin'. A fresh pile of sliced Nova Scotia lox (not that cheap, salty stuff) is served with all the traditional Jewish fare: kippered salmon, cream cheese, red onion and tomato atop a bagel (get it toasted) speared with an olive. It's an indulgent double dose of satisfying salmon.

The crispy oven-roasted salmon at this swanky Asian-fusion hot spot is accompanied with seasonal root vegetables, fingerling potatoes and a drizzle of a cilantro-oil olive sauce that combine to create a distinctive flavor. This texture-driven dish is simple and elegant — just like the restaurant that serves it.

Two of Kisso's most inventive salmon rolls are Killer Maki, filled with crispy salmon skin and unagi (smoked eel); and the Jay Roll, which features raw salmon sitting on top of a spicy tuna roll, covered with masago (salmon caviar) and "rice pop" — fun puffed beads of rice.

The Alaskan salmon burger at the White Dog is a nicely sized, firm patty of ground salmon, "pan browned" with bits of scallion peeking through its pink surface. Served with tartar sauce on a homemade poppy seed roll, this welcome alternative is accompanied by a salad of red onion, tomatoes and cucumber.

This cozy French bistro does salmon many ways — in a salad, as an entrée — but its salmon eggs benedict is trés bon for brunch. Served open-face on English muffins and not overly smothered in Hollandaise, a poached egg sits on one side of the plate, while spinach and smoked salmon rest on the other.