Up the Right Tree

by Elisa Ludwig

For an intro to Paraguayan cuisine, look to the lomito. At Northern Liberties' Arbol Café, the sandwich bears a striking resemblance to the Philly cheesesteak — the basic version is a golden, puffy Le Bus roll stuffed with slices of thin fried steak, a "broken" fried egg, turkey ham and melty Port-Salut cheese. It can be made even drippier with additional toppings, like fried onions and mushrooms.

But the genius of Paraguay is the inclusion of mayo, the final, exquisitely fatty touch that binds the ingredients and takes this snack into the realm of the divine. (Lomitos can be ordered anytime, but Arbol serves a pared-down mini version that is more suitable for breakfast.)

Open since fall, Arbol has the exposed-brick-and-hardwood-floor look of the prototypical city coffeehouse, though the Paraguayan flag, lace wall hangings and shelf lined with packages of instant mate are suggestive of co-owner Oscar Acuna's native culture. There's limited seating, but an adjacent garden extends the capacity and will be used in the summer for perillada (grilling meat) and music events; films and futbol games will be projected on the building's exterior wall.

On the menu are mostly all-day eats like salads with hearts of palm or tomato and mozzarella; salmon croissants; and bagels served on appealing square melamine plates. The Nespresso drinks (DIY coffee capsules) are quite good, and there are self-serve refills on fair-trade java.

But it's Paraguayan specialties like the lomito that have become increasingly popular with visitors. Another authentic sandwich, the abuelito, is composed of a spreadlike slather of flaked hearts of palm with mayo, romaine lettuce and tomato slices, all on soft white bread with the crust cut off. If you needed permission to harken back to childhood sandwich habits, here it is.

Arbol is also a great place to sample authentic yerba mate. Order and you'll receive a mate (gourd cup), filled with leaves of the yerba plant and a thermos of hot water. Pour the water into the cup and watch the concoction bubble and ripple as it steeps, then drink it through the bombilla, or metal straw. It's bitter and herby, greener-tasting than any green tea, and — most winningly — a highly intense stimulant.

If the traditional mate is too strong, try one of the more palatable instant varieties that can be served "dulce style," with or without a shot of espresso, capped with a foamy blanket of coconut cream and a cross-hatching of chocolate syrup. A few sips and you'll be hooked.

(e_ludwig@citypaper.net)

Arbol Café

209 Poplar St., 215-284-5788

Hours: Mon.-Wed. and Fri.-Sat., 8 a.m.-8 p.m.; Sun., 8 a.m.-5 p.m.; closed Thursday.

Sandwiches, $4.25-$8.75; Salads, $6.75-$8.75

BYOB. Cash only. Reservations not required except for large groups.