Places for Risotto

Tip of the Riceberg

by Gary M. Kramer

The Risotto alla Kristina consists of vialone nano rice — an absorbent, half-long semifine grain — along with Champagne (sometimes Prosecco), oysters and muddled orchids, creating a rich but not creamy risotto that gets its kick from the brine of the bivalves. (There's a raw one on top.)

Using carnaroli — Italy's preferred short, plump, extra-fine grain rice — the risotto at Rx is prepared with ripe diced heirloom beets and mango salsa that makes for sweet eating. While the risotto has density, it's not heavy; it's the perfect companion for the panko-crusted Jersey fluke, the fish it accompanies.

It may be strange to offer seafood risotto at an Irish haunt, but it won't even matter after you taste Plough's version. Basmati rice is cooked with chipotle, which gives it a piquant, unexpectedly spicy flavor. Every bite includes smatterings of scallops, shrimp and capers, and a creamy tomato sauce binds it all together nicely.

The Rosotto al Frutti di Mare at this intimate Italian BYO features a mound of firm arborio rice hidden by a fan of clams, mussels, shrimp and octopus — as well as whole baby squid. The seafood and rice float in a light marinara sauce that looks and tastes of savory seafood stock.

The arborio risotto at the elegant Gayle is paired with a rich and creamy truffle and soy sauce. Recently, the risotto was formed into crispy fingers, lightly fried on the outside and velvety on the inside. Five come in an order, but they're so good, you might be tempted to order a second handful.