Salento

Picking wines to go with the Salentine peninsula of Puglia.

by David Snyder

2216 Walnut St., 215-568-1314

One of the most reliable rules of pairing is to choose wines native to the regions where your food originated — as the saying goes, what grows together goes together.

Salento, the second successful venture of Davide and Kathryn Faenza (L'Angolo), serves dishes native to the Salentine peninsula of Puglia. The region is known for red varietals, including Negroamaro and Salice Salento, a charming blend of Negroamaro and Malvasia Nera grapes.

Two wines that fit Salento's menu are the Vigneti Reale Negroamaro Noire 2005 I.G.T. (PLCB No. 23825, $13.49) and the Taurino Salice Salentino Riserva 2001 D.O.C. (PLCB No. 9385, $13.99).

The rustic Vigneti Reale pairs well with the linguini aglione ($14); the saltiness of the ricotta salata topping the pasta complements the refreshing minerality of the Mediterranean climate.

The nuanced, aromatic Taurino is a perfect companion for the grigliata mista di carne ($24, pictured). The wine's firm tannins stand up to the grilled trio of veal, beef and lamb, and simplicity of the dish helps the Salice Salento shine — a more dressed-up preparation would mask the grape's complexity.