Old World Order

Our team of tasters tackles wines from Eastern and Southern Europe.

by Peter Burwasser

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Published: Jul 31, 2007

wine

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There is little question that worldwide winemaking is dominated by French traditions. In nearly all of the major New World wine outposts, including California, Australia, Chile and Argentina, French grapes and blending techniques form the basis for the style of wine.

But there are still plenty of wineries in Eastern and Southern Europe. While some familiar grape types are used, these countries also produce wine from fruit with names like Agiorgitiko, Babeaska Neagra and Harslevelu. There was a sense, as we sampled the following wines, of a simpler way of making fermented beverages — a link, perhaps, to ancient times. Finding them in stores dominated by major producers will be a challenge, but for the inquisitive oenophile, they are worth a try. In descending order of preference for our 10 tasters:

Olivier is the grape (we'd never heard of it, either). This wine shares the sweet/tart profile of classic Riesling and finds the balance in an elegant way. Those who cannot abide the sugar levels turned thumbs down; others, including the host, enjoyed the grapefruit aroma, and rich, peppery mouth feel. A class act. Hungary takes gold and silver! Dark, claret color; exciting spicy nose; zinfandel-like. The host detected some untamed tannins, indicating a need for some aging. In the real world, simply overpriced. Nobody hated this red, but reactions were diverse, even contradictory. At once thin and murky? Weak and spicy? The chameleon of the bunch, it would seem. A fresh, citrusy (mainly grapefruit) white. Detractors noted medicinal tones, thinness and balances askew. No, this isn't made from leafy greens. Kale is a Bordeaux-style blend of cabernet sauvignon and merlot, with some native Vranec tossed in for local color. Chocolate and cherry tones, beautiful purply color. Detractors found it bitter and thin. Sugar bomb — almost a dessert wine (pictured). Well-done and beautiful for some, sickeningly sweet for others. The host was transported back to Seders of yore and Manischewitz. Why is this night different from all other nights ... Not in the mold of a classic Rhine Riesling, but distinctive in some ways, including rich mineral overlays and a pleasingly fruity finish. Detractors, however, thought it rough, even pissy. Merely white grape juice and water for one particularly unhappy customer. An iconoclast, intriguing some with tar and licorice overtones and puckery mouth feel. Oddly balanced for the host. Others chimed in: insipid, oily, too grapey. Other than being wet and red, this stuff bears little resemblance to the pinot noir fruit that makes the noble Burgundy — a reflection of the low price. Candy cane cough syrup on the nose. Medicinal, watery, dull. The unnamed blend of white grapes are grown in Anatolia, actually, where wine has been made for millennia. Apparently, practice does not always make perfect. Not everyone thought this was a turkey, however, with one taster even enjoying a peachy keen aroma.

(p_burwasser@citypaper.net)

 

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