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7 N. Third St., 215-931-1560, www.bistro7restaurant.com
Bistro 7 chef/owner Michael O'Halloran's spring menu reveals the potential for some unconventional pairings with a California white — the Franciscan Chardonnay Napa Valley 2005 (PLCB No. 16506, $11.99).
The finish of this medium-bodied Chairman's Selection is subtle — the toasty notes are less intense than in other chardonnays. It also has a refreshingly bright acidity and lively notes of Granny Smith apple, citrus and honey. California chardonnays are notoriously difficult to pair with food, but O'Halloran's menu helps prove that this grape is more than versatile.
Earthy flavors work well with chardonnays, so the potato gnocchi with roasted royal trumpet mushrooms ($10 appetizer, $20 entrée) is a smart fit. The pasta itself is hearty, which works naturally with the mushrooms.
Elsewhere, the velvety polenta served with 7's braised rabbit entrée ($19) is an ideal match for this wine. Combining the buttery mash with savory rabbit pushes the chardonnay's creamy tones to the background, allowing the fruit flavors to spotlight the dish's fresh springtime theme.

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