Pumpkin Market

Pumpkin isn't going anywhere, but Ian Moroney's new idea has taken shape one block to the east.

by Trey Popp

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Published: Apr 24, 2007

Ian Moroney wants to get to know his neighbors. He's tried this once before, when he and his partner, Hillary Bor, opened Pumpkin in 2004. But that cozy BYOB at 17th and South streets soon began drawing a clientele from all over Philadelphia, and before long, out-of-towners were reserving tables. That's certainly no worst-case scenario for a first-time restaurateur, but a nagging yen for local community sent Moroney back to the drawing board. Pumpkin isn't going anywhere, but his new idea has taken shape one block to the east in a new storefront.

Pumpkin Market has been serving high-end sandwiches and prepared foods for about a month. There are eight stools arrayed around two narrow counters by the sun-drenched window, and a refrigerator case in which specialty items like white chorizo and country ham share space with braised oxtail and stuffed tomatoes. The selections change on a daily basis. A limited but thoughtful offering of dry goods includes pastas, gourmet potato chips and little bars of Scharffen Berger chocolate.

"Tell me what you want to see here," Moroney told some customers on a recent afternoon, "and I'll try to get it." Moroney is all ears about how he can turn Pumpkin Market into a friendly local gathering spot — a place where folks can feel comfortable bringing half a bottle of wine to snack on cheese and flatbread while chatting with their neighbors. Low-key tasting events may soon be in the offing.

The proximity of its predecessor offers certain advantages. If Pumpkin is serving chicken breasts one night, you might see thighs and drumsticks done up in a completely different manner down the street. But for the most part, the sister establishments are maintaining their independence. Which isn't to say that Moroney's culinary style isn't in full evidence at Pumpkin Market. Fellow mustard lovers especially will find a lot to like. The Cuban sandwich, which marries country ham and pork loin with house-pickled jalapenos and whole-grain mustard, is not for the faint-hearted. More subtle and surprising are the delicious shirred eggs with bacon, white asparagus and mustard cream, which recently appeared on the weekend brunch menu.

Other standouts include rich pork rillette, and lasagna made from the shredded meat of a slow-roasted leg of lamb. Pumpkin Market's take-away food doesn't make for a cheap meal at home, but it compares favorably to the price of a restaurant outing. Essentially, a modest per-pound premium over the prepared dishes at Whole Foods buys you a meal that a solid neighborhood restaurant could serve with pride. And if Moroney can figure out some way to make you linger, you might just meet a neighbor you never knew you had.

(t_popp@citypaper.net)

PUMPKIN MARKET, 1609 South St.215-545-1173Open Tue.-Fri., 10:30 a.m.-9 p.m; Sat.-Sun., 9 a.m.-9 p.m.Sandwiches, salads, etc., $5-$8; prepared foods priced per poundCredit cards accepted.Takeout available.

 

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