Totally Frank

Whose hot dogs are best in show?

by Elisa Ludwig

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Published: Apr 10, 2007

Baseball season has started, grills are coming out of winter hibernation and, perhaps it's just anticipation, but there's a faint, almost ghostly whiff of smoke in the air. We've got the fever for the weenie flavor. Luckily, there are plenty of local offerings, new and classic, to sate the craving — and some of them are taking hot dog embellishment to a whole new level.

NICE BUNS: Tom Camerote, at Moe's Hot Dog House in Grays Ferry, rocks a classic wiener smothered in mustard and sauerkraut. Photo By: Michael T. Regan (CLICK IMAGE FOR LARGER VERSION)

Doggie Style: This no-nonsense take-away off Arch Street is known for its titular braised beef sandwiches, but it also offers a small selection of hot dogs, available large or small. The 100 percent all-beef numbers are decidedly spicy and salty, with a flavor approaching salami. There are only a few toppings here: cheese, chili or the Philly with Wiz and onions. The flavorful dog, however, hardly needs embellishment and a spoonful of chili sauce will likely push you past your RDA of sodium.

Notable Wiener: Plain and simple, with mustard and relish. (103 N. 15th St., 215-569-0184, www.bubbysbrisket.com)

Doggie Style: Burgers are the thing at this red-and-white-checkered minichain of fast-food joints, but Five Guys pays deference to dog-lovers with a highly respectable hot dog. Like all of the restaurant's goods, it's prepared in front of you, the Hebrew National link halved and grilled until its edges are browned and the skin is bronzed, then tucked into a fresh baked-for-Five- Guys roll, which ably soaks up the post-grill grease.

Notable Wiener: Load it up with two menu-sanctioned, kosher-busting toppings: crispy bacon and a slice of melted American cheese — plus free extras like relish, onion and mustard. (1527 Chestnut St., 215-972-1375, www.fiveguys.com)

Doggie Style: With a Best of Philly award under its belt, this classic stand in the Reading Terminal Market does a brisk business of midday dogs and Polish sausages. (Which proves that, despite the global cornucopia of food the Market offers, there's really no substitute for familiar, frankfurtian comfort.) Stand in line with conventioneers and shout your order over the collective shopping din. Though they're wrapped in run-of-the-mill buns, the dogs themselves — steamed to juicy plumpness — have a firm consistency and a bit of a snap.

Notable Wiener: There are a variety of topping choices on hand, but the sauerkraut is pleasingly mild and tender. (1136 Arch St., 215-625-9991)

Doggie Style: A cheery Wayne-based wienery, Johnnie's had a Manayunk location inside Ben & Jerry's for a hot minute, but it has since been replaced by a Nathan's purveyor. Too bad for everyone on the wrong side of the Schuylkill. Johnnie's distinguishes itself from the pack with a few good bun-filling options (100 percent beef, turkey or veggie), available in a long list of topping variations. The meaty beef dogs are grilled and slightly crisp with a strong bologna flavor. They're served on toasted buns and go down easy with a few gulps of an Arnold Palmer (iced tea and lemonade). Be sure to stick to the main attraction, though — sides like mac and cheese and coleslaw, tempting as they may sound, are inferior to the hot dogs.

Notable Wiener: The South Philly Dog, with sweet fried onions and melted cheese. (You can specify American or Wiz.) (11 Louella Court, Wayne, Pa., 484-582-0151, www.johnniesdoghouse.com)

Doggie Style: A relative newcomer, Moe's in Grays Ferry is poised to take over the local wiener scene. Occupying a sizable corner lot, it offers plenty of seating, a flat-screen TV and an incredible statue of a personified hot dog squirting condiments on itself. The dogs are extra long, super smoky and served on crusty buns. As the cops in line can tell you, you can't really go wrong here. Moe's showcases its ingenuity with creations like the Connie Mac (topped with mac and cheese) and the Engine 47, deep-fried with hot sauce. A host of additional toppings are available for 30 cents each.

Notable Wiener: The South Street, a brilliant pairing of spicy chili and creamy homemade coleslaw. (2601 Washington Ave., 215-465-6637)

Doggie Style: Texas has been a South Philly institution, serving up grilled frankfurters at its tiled luncheonette counter since 1923. The walls are festooned, Jim's Steaks-style, with autographed headshots of celebrity patrons. You can sit at the counter or on a side table — but either way, you'll get a stool. The grilled beef hot dogs are mildly spiced with a tinge of smoke and served up on pillowy double-wide Italian rolls. Texas Wieners also offers doggies to go — in packs of six, 10 or Blackjack (21).

Notable Wiener: Though the famous house dog is the Texas Wiener, served with mustard, onion and "Greek sauce," we like the confusingly named Texan, which is split and stuffed with crisp nuggets of home fries, plus grilled peppers and onions. (1426 Snyder Ave., 215-465-8635, www.texaswieners.com)

(e_ludwig@citypaper.net)

 

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