El Zarape

Mexican joints have been popping up in Philadelphia like clovers after a monsoon, and not even South Philly has reached its saturation point.

by Trey Popp

Mexican joints have been popping up in Philadelphia like clovers after a monsoon, and not even South Philly has reached its saturation point.

El Zarape is among the latest in this crop of newcomers, having set up shop on Passyunk several blocks south of La Lupe and Los Taquitos de Puebla, and right across the street from the more upscale Cantina Los Caballitos. A low-key place whose overhead fluorescent lighting panels are fitted with green and red tubes to approximate the Mexican national flag, El Zarape is of a piece with its recent predecessors. It's not going to rewrite the rules of the Philadelphia taqueria — rules badly in need of some Wite-Out — but as long as you don't import your expectations from California, it's got solid chops in two departments.

Specifically, pork and milk fat.

The complimentary chips with refried beans are a nice touch, and the chicken with poblano mole adds weight to the plate. But when an eatery fills $2 tacos with four varieties of pork, take heed. (Actually, a flour tortilla bumps it up to $2.50, but Takeru Kobayashi could hardly complain about the enfolded mound of meat for that price.) The simple carnitas taco is topped with onions and cilantro and pulls together nicely with a lime garnish. The chuleta ahumada has a salty flavor befitting smoked meat, and is bound to please anyone with a soft spot for Canadian bacon, which it resembles in flavor. Best, though, is the pastor con pina, marinated in deep crimson achiote spices and seeded with slices of fresh pineapple. Pork and pineapple are a classic combination in almost any form, but especially in the presence of warming spices like clove, allspice and cinnamon.

Simplicity is a virtue in El Zarape's tacos, but it doesn't serve the rest of the menu quite as well. The dark poblano mole poured over a pair of chicken legs and thighs is tasty, but the dish would be better if the chicken were actually cooked in it. Burritos — which aren't on the menu but frequently grace the specials board — suffer from the same sad veggies that La Veracruzana offers. (Honestly, who wants frozen/canned corn, green beans and carrots in a burrito?) The pork filling in a recent burrito might have overcome that weakness if it hadn't included gelatinous cubes of fat. The disc-shaped huarache has a mellow corn flavor, but the mound of iceberg lettuce on the top detracts from the overall effect.

Fortunately, simplicity shines again when it comes to dessert. A large square of flan does right by its milk and eggs, offering a slippery, silky treat that's dusted with cinnamon and topped with a splendid thin caramel sauce. And it doesn't hurt that it's big enough for two. Along with the solid pork tacos, it may be just enough to stave off those California taqueria dreams for another day.

(t_popp@citypaper.net)

El Zarape

1648 E. Passyunk Ave., 215-336-1293

Hours: Mon.-Fri., 8 a.m.-11 p.m.; Sat.-Sun., 8 a.m.-11:30 p.m.

Breakfast, $8-$10; lunch and dinner, $2-$15

Cash only.