Fogo de Chão

Slow-roasting meats over an open flame is a way of life for Fogo de Chão's chefs/waiters

by A.D. Amorosi

If a young man in gaucho pants and a neckerchief ran up to you with a skewer full of hot meat, you'd laugh and say, "I saw that at Pure, honey," and walk away. You wouldn't think a fine food experience — complete with white linens and a 300-plus wine list — would come of it. But at the new Brazilian churrascaria Fogo de Chão, housed in one of Philly's grandest buildings (formerly J.E. Caldwell jewelers), dressing like a Rio Grande do Sul cowboy and slow-roasting meats over an open flame is a way of life for its chefs/waiters. (They're one in the same here.)

So what makes Fogo special? It serves 15 cuts of meat, including filet mignon, prime rib, lamb chops and pork sausage. More importantly, it lures young country boys like Jean Boschetti and Leandro Benacchio to join Fogo de Chão as children, then rears them within the chain (there are 13 locations worldwide) until they're hired on as executive chefs. Given the gauchos' (pronounced gaw-oo-chos) years of training and Fogo's emphasis on constant table-side service, they take pride in how they cut their meat and pay close attention to the details (thickness, rareness, temperature, etc.). The relationship between chef and diner is eye to eye, hand to hand and knife to fork.

Eating at Fogo, I discovered, is something of a game. After noshing on a fried banana side or the cured-meat-rich salad bar, you're given large poglike discs that are green on one side ("Sim por favor") and red on the other ("Nao obrigado"). The Portuguese translations signal to the gauchos when you'd like more meat and when you've had enough, respectively.

"Whether done with charcoal or gas-fired, we need an open flame," explains Andrew Feldmann, the traveling manager who set up Fogo at the Chestnut Street space. "The chefs understand the timing and the positioning of the meat from the flame."

The swords of meat go straight from the flames (viewable from most seats in the restaurant) to your table — no heat lamps necessary. "It sounds corny to say, but it really is a process oriented toward the guest," says Feldmann.

The tastes are equally bold and simple — sea salt for sirloin; Parmesan-crusted pork; white wine, lemon pepper and mint for succulent lamb chops; and chicken marinated in beer and cognac — selected to enhance the natural flavors within each cut. This is the spirit and culture of gaucho cooking. It ain't just pretty boys and baggy pants.

(a_amorosi@citypaper.net)

Fogo de Chão, 1337 Chestnut St., 215-636-9700, www.fogodechao.com