Returns To Spinach

Green Party

by Kelly White

E. Coli-gate '06 was a Greek tragedy. Now that it's safe to eat spinach, start with a slice of spanakopita. The Greek Lady layers Popeye's favorite with salty feta and golden phyllo for a traditional treat that always sells out by midday. How's that for a comeback?

And here you thought you had to move to Europe to eat spinach again. Halt right there and czech out the Transylvanian Casserole, Warsaw Cafe's hearty combination of ground veal, eggplant, spinach and cheese topped with phyllo and tomato sauce. Mere lettuce stood in during the spinach strike, but the dish is back to its dark green self this week.

Spinach is the side de rigueur at Farmicia, so we're relieved to see it garnishing once more. But it's not just a sidekick: On its glorious own, the salad is a mountain of leafy greenery crowned with smoked cheddar, bacon, egg, croutons and Dijon dressing.

Sure, Rachael's knishes come in cheese and potato, but it's the scandalous spinach variety that really stands out. Rachael's bakes hers in the oven until they reach flaky pastry perfection. They're high in iron, and artery-friendly to boot.

Nothing erases sneaking contamination suspicions quicker than authentic Eastern European home cooking. At Jovan's, the mashed potatoes are whipped by hand with heaps of fresh spinach, and the mysteriously rich recipe doesn't include butter or milk. Heartbroken fans, stay strong: Your favorite side will be back in business in about a week.