FOOD . Small Bites

Hack Snacks

Cabbie fare

Published: Oct 18, 2006

Philadelphia's cabbies spend anywhere from 8 to 18 hours a day roaming our streets — and consequently have an encyclopedic knowledge of the city's various ethnic eateries. We asked a few waylaid wheelmen about their favorite places to dine on the run.

"I go to Wazobia (616 N. 11th St., 215-769-3800)," says Steve Emonaie, a native of Nigeria who's now living in Southwest Philly. "I get fresh fish. [And] ewedu, that's a type of green." Primarily used in Nigerian soups and stews, ewedu is often boiled with iru, or fermented locust beans, and used as a condiment.

Emonaie, Birahimm Camara of West Philly and Lansdowne's Mohammad Sayed all frequent Kabobeesh (4201 Chestnut St., 215-386-8081), another popular place for cabbie fare. While Emonaie sticks with your standard chicken wings, Camara prefers lamb dishes, which he can order curried or marinated in a house seasoning. Sayed is a fan of both the tandoori chicken and the kabobs. The former is essentially a whole breast or leg, also cooked in the house seasoning; The kabobs come in varieties like resham, ground sirloin and chapli, a hot and spicy beef done Peshawar-style.

Imtiaz Uddin has been driving for three years. "We like Indian restaurants, because we like spicy food," he says of his family's culinary favorites. Uddin often stops at New Delhi (4004 Chestnut St., 215-386-1941) for the fiery chicken vindaloo in a spiced tomato sauce, and the malai kofta, seasoned vegetable balls.

Originally from Turkey, Vedat Korkmaz loves lahmacun (also known as "Turkish pizza"), but has trouble finding it in Philly. This pie's dough is topped with minced meat instead of tomato sauce and cheese, and then sprinkled with lemon juice and served rolled up with pickles. Korkmaz says he settles for homemade Turkish gyros at Konak (228 Vine St., 215-592-1212), served in fresh wraps with tomatoes and onions.

Patrick Buzingo, who hails from Burundi, likes Gojjo (4540 Baltimore Ave., 215-386-1444), an Ethiopian restaurant where he can find injera, a paper-thin bread made of teff flour. Gojjo carries injera wrapped around chicken tibs or lamb meat, then cooked with onion, curry and pepper.

Upper Darby resident Burkina Faso likes the grilled fish meals at Fatou & Fama (4002 Chestnut St., 215-386-0700). There are certainly plenty to choose from; If you're in the mood for West African, try the chebujen, a fish plate known as the national dish of Senegal, where it's referred to as tiébou dienn. F&F's version is marinated with herbs and spices, and served with vegetables and rice. If you prefer an order of the West Indian persuasion, try the stewed tilapia, kicked up with onions, green peppers, garlic and tomatoes.

Taxi haunts may be off the map, but Faso and the rest of the guys agree: Nothing beats authentic eats that are fast, cheap and singe-your-tongue spicy. Next time you're in a cab, ask your driver where he fills up — tip for tip.

(j_loughery@citypaper.net)

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