FRIDAY SATURDAY SUNDAY

The Back Story: Founder/current owner Weaver Lilley opened FSS with six partners in 1973. "The war was on, and we wanted to do something outside the straight world," he says. With $14,000, they set up shop on 21st Street. The name came from the idea that they'd save money by closing on weeknights. "It was a bad policy and a goofy name, but people never forget it."

Most Popular Dish Then, and Now: Elizabeth Taylor chili, baked with a cornbread crust; crabcakes with roasted pepper sauce.

Success Secret: "Hav-ing the right people on staff, and keeping them happy."

Favorite R.I.P. Rest-aurant: Les Amis.

CITY TAVERN

The Back Story: Originally opened in 1773 by John Penn, John Dickenson and Benjamin Chew, City Tavern fed all the big boys, including George Washington, until the fire of 1834. It was reopened by the Nat-ional Park Service in 1976. In 1994, chef Walter Staib took the reins, and instituted a historically accurate menu.

Most Popular Dish Then, and Now: Turkey Pot Pie, served with sherry cream sauce, a fried oyster and egg noodles.

Success Secret: "We've done well because of our location, and our ability to maintain the quality," says Staib. "Even if I wanted to, I could not change much here. The worst thing you can do is make a liar out of your guests."

Favorite R.I.P. Restaurant: The Garden.

THE DEAN OF PHILLY DINING: Georges Perrier basks in the splendor of his five-star Le Bec-Fin. Photo By: Michael T. Regan

LE BEC-FIN

The Back Story: Founder/owner Georges Perrier had already achieved success at La Panetière before opening his own restaurant at 12th and Locust streets in 1970. There wasn't much competition then, he says. "You had Bookbinder's, Jimmy's Milan. But it wasn't a restaurant town." Le Bec-Fin moved to its current location in 1983, and has since garnered multistarred accolades.

Most Popular Dish Then, and Now: Escargot with champagne and hazelnut butter sauce.

Success Secret: "You have to be good at what you do and believe it's the right thing," says Perrier.

Favorite R.I.P. Restaurants: Jimmy's Milan and Restaurant da Gaetano.

PHILADELPHIA FISH & COMPANY

The Back Story: Founders Janet and Kevin Meeker, who previously owned Los Amigos on Second Street, came up with the concept for Philadelphia Fish & Company after visiting Santa Barbara in the early 1980s. "Seafood cooked on mesquite was big there. I saw a niche for it here," says Kevin. They opened in Old City in 1983. "The neighborhood was so quiet you could shoot a gun down the street on Saturday night without hitting anyone."

Most Popular Dish Then, and Now: Grilled swordfish; seared tuna with chorizo and rice-stuffed Ancho chili.

Success Secret: "Our menu is totally different from what we started with and I think that's why we're still around. I also have great employees."

Favorite R.I.P. Rest-aurant: Los Amigos

DEUX CHEMINEES

The Back Story: Founder/owner Fritz Blank was a clinical microbiologist with a passion for home entertaining when he decided to open a restaurant in 1979. "I said I'd do it for a year and if it didn't work out I could go back to saving lives," he says. But this classic French dining room with tuxedoed waiters got rave reviews. "We were feeding multitudes from a single stove and working our asses off, but it felt good." Blank moved the operation from Camac to Locust Street after a fire in 1985.

Most Popular Dish Then, and Now: Rack of lamb with truffle-filled sauce Perigord.

Success Secret: "Good food, good service, good value. Then, ambiance, consistency and location. We've never served big sprigs of rosemary. I never followed fads or sought publicity."

Favorite R.I.P. Rest-aurants: La Panetière and Restaurant da Gaetano.

WHITE DOG CAFE

The Back Story: Founder/owner Judy Wicks was a general manager at La Terrasse when she opened White Dog down the street in 1983 with her own personal furniture and the novel idea to serve American food, fresh from the garden. The homey cafe evolved from coffee and muffins to a full-service kitchen with a proper chef. Today Wicks also operates a foundation supporting sustainable businesses and local food. Table 24 is still the dining table from her house.

Most Popular Dish Then, and Now: Brother John's Chicken, prepared on the charcoal grill; wild-caught salmon.

Success Secret: "The community involvement and social commitment is what keeps me here: I would never be in the business for 23 years if all I did was serve food."

Favorite R.I.P. Restaurants: Frog and Lickety-Split.

(e_ludwig@citypaper.net)