It had all the trappings of French culture in its dark wood tables and chairs and the abundance of flowers. Then, around the time of "freedom fries," Frenchness seemed to lose its luster, and the restaurant was quiet. Georges Perrier listened to the speculations, pondered the problem and restyled the restaurant as Georges', an uncommonly attractive neighborhood spot where you could bring the kids for pizzas or burgers while you ate the elegant, albeit simplified, cuisine.

CALF RIOT: Georges' veal tenderloin, flanked by spears of asparagus, is rich with the flavor veal often lacks. : Michael T. Regan

If the other evening was any sign, Georges' is a big success. The bar was bustling — Tuesday-to-Friday happy hour features cheaper drinks and free hors d'oeuvres (thin-crust pizza, Georges' cheesesteak — not too shabby). In the larger dining room, noise rose to the vaulted ceilings the way smoke used to — dense and almost impenetrable. That was the only problem with the meal — we could not have a conversation, because the other tables were having such a good time. Still, there were some delicious surprises divulged on the revamped and constantly changing menu.

First, on the wine list, which starts at $30 for bottles, we found a delightful Duet, a chardonnay and Viognier combination from Louis Latour, that lit up the meal with a golden, spicy fragrance. The soup of the day, a deep russet carrot, was gingery and just the right temperature. The oysters — three from the Chesapeake and three from Virginia — were fat and sea-fresh, with a ginger mignonette. The crab cake of solid crabmeat was bedded on an English pea puree, surrounded by succulent cippolini onions, and sauced with a mustardy mix. There were also the famous house-smoked salmon, crab and shrimp spring rolls and a pasta diGiorno, many salads, and that wonderful pizza to "whet the appetite" as the menu suggests. A gift from the chef was a small mound of steak tartare, an ancient classic that was perfect raw beef — lightly chunked and flavored with mustard and onions. My palate's memory was properly jogged by this unexpected treat.

The noisy frolicking continued, but that didn't spoil our entrees. A veal tenderloin, pink and with the flavor that veal usually lacks, was enhanced by a lemon risotto and a dab of Madeira sauce. Crisp crusted tilapia rested on lobster mashed potatoes, crisscrossed with asparagus and napped with a light vermouth sauce. The plat du jour happened to be Dover sole, as delicate as it should be, with a light lemony sauce, and the classic accompaniments of fingerling potatoes and haricot verts. We noted that portions were exceedingly generous, and in this Americanized restaurant — don't tell, don't breathe a word — the sauces and the presentations were most definitely French.

Dessert after such a meal can be a bit much, but we rose to the occasion. There's always Georges' liquid-center chocolate cake with vanilla ice cream, or his vanilla creme brulee, or his luscious creme fraiche cheesecake, but we tried something new — a trio of jars— one containing summer fruits suspended in a rosy gelatin; another, a cake with ice cream and whipped cream; and my favorite featuring an almond panna cotta. Taken all together this was just an OK dessert, but the Tarte Tatin with vanilla ice cream is as good as ever. It's not ma's apple pie — it's very French — and always well executed.

We met affable executive chef Joseph Frost. When I asked where he had studied, he replied, "At the University of Perrier! I worked my way through every restaurant of Georges', and here I am."

It seems that Georges Perrier does not epater la bourgeoisie. They serve a lovely lunch in addition to the dinners, and they also have a popular prix fixe Sunday brunch. The bar has an impressive list of single malt scotches, and other after-dinner libations. Sundays are BYO (wine only), and there is plenty for the kids to choose from. As we left the party was still going strong, and I was happy to see Georges' such a success. The Americanization of Georges' worked, but the French influence is still detectable.

(m_keyser@citypaper.net)