The couple, who opened Vintage in early April, never planned to make Philly their home. They relocated from France in 2002 so Jason could enter the MBA program at Temple. Once settled, they eased into notable Center City dining gigs — he waited at Le Bec-Fin, she managed Caribou Café. After a year here, however, they knew opening a place of their own was the next step. "It was just common sense," says Delphine.

WINE AND DINE: "It's about the ability to sit down and taste through wine in a laid-back environment," says Jason Evenchik, here with wife and co-owner Delphine. : Michael T. Regan

While your inner snob might consider decorating a wine bar with wine stuff the culinary equivalent of attending a concert wearing the band's T-shirt, Vintage's interior is relaxed and fun, not one iota of synthetic kitsch to the place. Crate tops decorate a large wall as you enter. Above, there's a huge bottle-adorned chandelier modeled after vineyard drying racks. In the back, a mirrored divider is covered with over 4,000 corks the couple glued on themselves. (She paid a visit to the ER after one particularly harrowing halving mishap.)

The fully recovered Delphine stresses Vintage's unhurried approach. "We wanted it to be comfortable," she says. "That was the key to everything." During the planning stages, they brought a tape measure along on bar hops, measuring cramped stools and booths to make sure theirs were roomier. There are even gender-inclusive hooks beneath the bar for guests to hang purses, bags and umbrellas. "It's about the ability to sit down and taste through wine in a laid-back environment," says Jason.

The Evenchiks are certainly aware that running a wine bar conjures up caskfuls of grape-stomping pretense. That's why they spent time building a simple-yet-comprehensive list capable of pleasing experts and novices alike. "You should never be intimidated," explains Delphine. "You have to learn wine to appreciate wine, but don't make it torture."

They currently offer about 65 wines by the glass, and around 20 more by the bottle. Delphine, a certified sommelier, crafted layman's descriptions for each offering. There are some pricey rarities on the list (Boillot Puligny Montrachet '99, the sparkling Laurent Perrier Brut), but the couple insists there is no crown jewel. To them, it's all about accommodating a wide variety of proclivities and budgets. "Wine is accessible when you're guided in the right direction," says Delphine. "But you don't want to be pushy or bossy about it."

Jason even attempted to take the process to comical extremes, much to the chagrin of his wine expert wife. "To make it funny, I was going to add crap at the end," he laughs. "Mad Dog 20/20, Boone's Farm. She wouldn't let me do that."

If one thing keeps Vintage from succumbing to Tria Syndrome, it's the menu. Sure, it features pretty cheese and charcuterie plates, but there's also what Jason unsubtly refers to as "real food." Head chef Jason Gleichman, formerly of Jake's in Manayunk, worked with the couple to create French-inspired fare that also draws from international flavors. See the chicken satay, grilled skewers paired with a peanut sauce and spicy sriracha; or the tempura-battered calamari, served with a zingy truffle and tomato aioli. Jason's personal favorite is the Vintage Burger, ground Angus topped with applewood-smoked bacon, roasted red pepper and Manchego cheese.

Another pleasant surprise is the first-rate beer selection. They've wisely stuck local prerequisites like Yuengling and Victory Hop Devil on tap, but the behind-the-bar cooler boasts brews spanning several continents — standouts include Quebec's La Fin du Monde and Belgians like La Chouffe and Framboise. There are also notable American micros like Three Floyds Alpha King Pale Ale and Stone's Arrogant Bastard, a 22-ounce beast reputed for its potency.

Like any married couple, Euro-classy or otherwise, the Evenchiks are skilled in the art of quibbling. She shoots him steely glances when he steals a piece of duck off her lunch plate; they bicker over the rules of wine pairing and whether or not Hoegaarden is a "girly beer." Endearing Vaughniston-esque spats aside, they agree on one thing above all else: A good wine bar should never make the vinophobics flee in terror. "A lot of people take it way too seriously," says Jason. "But at the end of the day, you're drinking wine to feel good." (d_lazor@citypaper.net)

Vintage Wine Bar & Bistro

Smoking at the bar. Credit cards accepted. Liquor license.