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June 15-21, 2006

Summer Restaurant Guide '06

Jamaican

SPOT UP:
South Street strollers might notice that Jamaican Jerk Hut (1436 South St., 215-545-8644) sticks out like a Rastafarian tourist in Salt Lake City. The vibrant sea-green exterior houses a thatched-roof order counter and a charming outdoor dining area for patrons. While its reggae-rustic appearance is cool, the 12-year-old Hut's real appeal lies in the food, which doesn't stray one iota from owner Nicola Shirley's Caribbean roots.

TELL ME ABOUT IT:
Jamaican food is regarded as one of the healthiest cuisines in the world, and many omnipresent ingredients and spices (ginger, allspice, garlic) are touted for their immune system-boosting qualities. Furthermore, Jamaicans don't eat a lot of red meat—you'll find much more chicken and seafood. The Hut serves sides with most of its dishes, including jasmine rice and delicately fried plantains. A quick tidbit for spicy heads: the Scotch bonnet peppers, commonly used to flavor meat dishes, are among the hottest in the world.

COMMONPLATE:
While the national dish of Jamaica is ackee and saltfish (a pairing of aromatic African fruit with seasoned cod), jerk chicken is the most recognizable. The "jerk" here refers not to me, but to the seasoning—a volatile dry-spice mixture coats the bird, which is then grilled to achieve a smoky scent and flavor. (JJH uses hardwood charcoal.) The Hut keeps its jerk recipe a secret, but trust that it's hotter than a bikinied Jessica Alba doing the breaststroke in a kiddie pool filled with champagne. Since water makes it worse (duh), the best way to quell the fire is to munch on the tasty Jamaican cabbage that comes on the side.

FOR THE BALLSY:
Oxtail is widely used in the Caribbean, as well as in the soul food of the American South, but most Northerners don't give it much due. (And yes, it's really a tail.) The Hut's oxtail stew contains tender meat portions with a tangy tomato sauce, peppers and onions.

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PHRASE THAT PAYS:
Jamaicans speak our language, albeit a switched-up version sometimes referred to as Jamaican Creole or patois. This dialect flicks a glorious middle finger to pretty much every established grammar rule ever, and it sounds lovely. ("Mi need som isle to fry de fish," says the lady who misplaced the Wesson.) While the Hut's staff practices more traditional verbiage, dropping a couple patois phrases is sure to give them a hearty laugh. Hell, they might even give you a free beef patty for trying (and failing).

LITTLE-KNOWN FACT:
Remember In Her Shoes, that 2005 estrogen fest that your girlfriend forced you to see with her? No? Well, several scenes from the film were shot at the Jerk Hut. Unfortunately, Cameron Diaz wasn't.

TACT BRIGADE:
Jamaican culture is, by and large, extremely relaxed and easygoing. You won't have to commit any unfamiliar customs to memory here, but that doesn't mean you can forget your manners. Think of it this way—if you can picture your mother bitching you out for a particular transgression, it's probably rude. Common sense, y'all. (Sorry for cursing, Ma.)

Find All African & Caribbean Restaurants

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