The brand-new Divan Turkish Kitchen (918 S. 22nd St., 215-545-5790) is run by Ilker and Fulya Ugur, siblings who recently moved from NYC to Philly to give Konak (228 Vine St., 215-592-1212) a little competition. "In Manhattan, there are over 35 Turkish restaurants, and they're always packed," says Ilker.

Since the Ottoman Empire conquered much of the world in its heyday, Turkish food influenced a number of different culinary traditions. For example, most of the takeout Greek treats Americans are familiar with (gyro, kebab, etc.) actually have roots in Turkish cuisine. Lamb is the most commonly used meat—see for reference the adana kebab, char-grilled lamb flavored with bell pepper and Turkish spices, or the classic doner kebab, lamb broiled on a skewer and served paper thin. Divan's cold appetizers provide yet another window into the country's oft-emulated traditions: tangy minced peppers, stuffed eggplant and cacik (a chilled yogurt dip) are wonderful with fresh-baked pita.

Hunkar begendi is a palate-pleasing combination of smoked eggplant and chunked baby lamb or chicken. The eggplants are grilled until their insides become soft and pulpy; they're then skinned, mashed and flavored with simple ingredients like lemon, salt and pepper. In English, the dish's name translates to "sultan's pleasure," which is awesome.

The arnavut cigeri is a fried calf's liver sauteed in olive oil. Eat it, wuss.

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Turkey is famous for its coffee, which is something like the stronger, bolder older brother of the watered-down dreck you get at Wawa every morning. To order this regional specialty, try saying Turk kahvesi lutfen (Turk koff-ve-say loot-fan), "Turkish coffee, please."

On the hummus front, most of us think we're branching out when we buy a Tribe of Two Sheiks tub from Super Fresh. But Ilker says true hummus is made with ice, not water. This practice ensures that the end product comes out crisp, flavorful and substantive.

I know it's allergy season and all, but please relegate all hanky-related nasal attention to the restroom. In Turkey, it's especially rude to touch or blow your nose at the table.

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