Philly's unofficial mecca for all things Viet is Wing Phat Plaza (1122 Washington Ave., 215-271-5866), but University City's in the mix too: small, inviting Pho & Café Saigon (4248 Spruce St., 215-222-6800) is an in-and-out spot that caters to native speakers and snooty Ivy Leaguers alike.

Specific styles of Vietnamese cuisine vary from region to region, but the one commonality is the thrown-together, little-of-everything style of the typical dish. You'll find nary a plate holding only one item; meats are accompanied by noodles, bean sprout salads, sunny-side-up eggs and "broken rice." Rice flake noodles are wide and wontonlike, and can come with fried spring rolls, charbroiled pork and tofu. Condiments are a big deal in Vietnam, the most common being soy sauce, fish sauce and sriracha, a zingy squirt-on comparable to ketchup. Of course, there's always banh mi (bun-me), the infamously delicious Vietnamese hoagie. Available all over Philly, the sandwich can contain a variety of meats (pork, chicken or pate) paired with sliced veggies (radish, carrot and onions are common).

Vietnamese noodle soup is number one, pho sure. The rich, clear broth is beef-based, enhanced by a number of different spices. Café Saigon's got 16 varieties of pho to accommodate all tastes, including versions with beef tendon, beef balls, shrimp and chicken. Southern Vietnamese usually top pho with lime and sprouts.

Saigon's got a pho bowl that combines noodles and broth with beef tendon and tripe. Always with the beef stomach!

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The service at Saigon is prompt and friendly, but the waitstaff just isn't as faux-gregarious as the medicated servers at Applebee's. Make 'em feel appreciated with a little complimenting: Mayy dep qwah ("you are pretty"), ngon gwah ("this tastes yummy") and my personal favorite, teet yi mayy ("I like your shoes!").

Check out any Vietnamese menu and you'll see a wide selection of vermicelli dishes, which is strange considering it's a traditionally Italian noodle. This version, however, is made from rice, not flour, giving it a more subtle texture and flavor than its Mediterranean counterpart.

If you're trying to get the check, never, ever beckon to a server with an upturned come-hither finger. It's extremely offensive in Vietnamese culture, as it suggests you equate a person with a dog or other inferior animal. To get someone's attention, simply motion to them with your entire hand, fingers facing down.

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