SPOT UP:
There are a number of East African restaurants in the area, and
Dahlak is among the most authentic. Named for an archipelago in the Red Sea, Dahlak has two locations: University City (4708 Baltimore Ave., 215-726-6464) and Germantown (5547 Germantown Ave., 215-849-0788).
TELL ME ABOUT IT:
There are tons of overlap when it comes to Eritrean and Ethiopian cuisineafter all, the countries are adjacent to one another on Africa's east coast and possess centuries of shared history. Lamb, chicken and beef form the basis of most meals. There's also a heavy emphasis on vegetables like lentils, chickpeas, string beans, okra and mushrooms. None of this sounds particularly exotic, right? That's where the spices come in. Berbere, a hot-as-hell spice combo comparable to curry, is a mixture of chili powder and everything from turmeric to cloves. It's sometimes added to water or wine to create a spicy sauce. Another common flavor kickup is niter kebbeh, a butter enhanced by garlic and ginger. Each dish served at Dahlak's low-to-the-ground tables is large enough to be eaten by a party of two to three (think Buca di Beppo, except good). Injera, a soft and spongy flatbread made from teff flour, is used as both a plate and a utensil, its breaking representing the cultural significance of the meal. "When we eat, we share our food," says Dahlak owner Neghisti Ghebrehiwet.
COMMONPLATE:
To get an idea of widely appreciated Eritrean meals, just ask, "Where's the beef?" The spicy zigene appetizer is seasoned minced meat, while key watt (not an '80s band) is a leaner cut. Both beef dishes are stewed in berbere sauce.
FOR THE BALLSY:
Dahlak's dulet is a spicy mixture of beef liver and tripe served almost raw. I double dulet dare you to try it. No? Fine. I
triple dulet dare you.
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PHRASE THAT PAYS:
Tigrinya, Eritrea's most common language, is kinda difficult, but giving it your best effort is sure to score some points. Show your server you care with a simple
yekenyele (YEK-neh-lay), or "thank you."
LITTLE-KNOWN FACT:
Italy controlled Eritrea until its forces were defeated by the Allies in World War II. Because of this heritage, Italian is still spoken in some areas of the country. Joe Vento is currently working on a bigoted window sign addressing the issue.
TACT BRIGADE:
Since much of the eating is done with the hands, it's customary to wash your mitts thoroughly before grabbing your share of the injera. Another custom: It's generally accepted that the right hand is the, uh, right hand to use when eating the bread. Discrimination, I say! Misunderstood southpaws of the world, unite.
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