Inside, it's an informal scene, with a few granite-topped tables and Mexican game shows and fútbol matches on the TV over the open kitchen.

Jarocho is a synonym for Veracruzano, meaning a native to the state of Veracruz, but the food here is not limited to that region. In the morning there's a roster of egg dishes, along with meatier items like quesadillas. At lunch, the kitchen churns out tacos, burritos and tortas, big sandwiches stuffed with various fillings, plus all the specials available in the evening.

While you wait, munch on very lightly salted corn chips with three dips: a fresh, seedy pico de gallo and two crema-based salsas—one is pink with smoked chili peppers, the other slightly darker with flecks of cilantro and more heat.

These warm you up for cool appetizers like the vuelva a la vida, or "back to life," a soupy cocktail of shrimp, squid and mussels with half-sunken slices of avocado and onion. It's as sweet and tangy as ketchup and there's a pile of saltine cracker packages for scooping and soaking up the goods.

The tacos come in threes but are definitely not bad luck. In fact, they're as tasty as any in this neighborhood, though they take up only a small portion of the menu. Go for a sampler of flavorful chicken, smoky chorizo and shredded pork. The meat is tucked into double-layered corn tortillas, embellished only with cilantro and finely chopped onion, plus lime wedges for added acid boost. On the side is more of the chipotle salsa and another sauce, a creamy, green number that has a slower but more intense burn.

You might skip over the chicken enchiladas in brown mole, which are smothered by a snowdrift of mild, crumbly queso fresco. The mole itself is very heavy on the cinnamon, and a little too sweet for my liking.

On the other hand there is the mojarra frita, a house specialty. The fried whole tilapia flakes under its batter-crisp skin. Another highlight is the weekend special barbacoa: slow-roasted lamb in a rich red chili marinade. On the side are smooth refried beans, tomato-tinged rice, a glistening pool of pico de gallo and pickled jalapenos. It's excellent, just the kind of dish you could start getting used to now, and maybe, someday, even take for granted.

(e_ludwig@citypaper.net)

El Jarocho

Cash only. Takeout and delivery available.