As is the case with the ancient winemaking regions of France and Italy, tradition runs deep in Spanish viticulture, nowhere more so than in Rioja, the most famous source of high-quality wine. In other regions, including Navarra, Penedés, Ribera del Duero and Jumilla, there is some experimentation, but not nearly as much as in other major wine centers around the world. The reigning grape, in all of these locations, is Tempranillo, a native variety. Garnacha, which is Spanish for Grenache, is also widely used, mainly as a junior partner to Tempranillo in blends. The use of other French grapes, including Cabernet Sauvignon and Mourvedre, is becoming more common.

One of the traditions that is especially valued in Spanish winemaking is aging. There are three categories of aging in Rioja, which is a model for other districts, and even Crianza wines, the designation for minimum aging, require a year in oak casks and an additional year in the bottle prior to release. The next levels are Reserva and Gran Reserva. This practice, combined with a climate that is on average slightly warmer than is ideal for wine grapes, results in wines that are fruitier and more robust than those at a similar price point from France and Italy. Wines that, in other words, are well matched to the typical American palette.

Those Spanish traditionalists do pay a price in the marketing department, lagging far behind New World manufacturers in selling savvy, let alone their counterparts in Europe. The labels on most Riojas, for example, look as if they haven't been redesigned in ages. But you don't drink the label. Eventually, the marketing folks will catch on, as one unusually named wine in our little survey indicates. In the meantime, take advantage of one of the best wine values in the world (pricing based on Stalinist State Store prices—substantial reductions can be found in more enlightened states). Our eight tasters ranked this mostly traditional selection in the following order, beginning with our favorite:

1. Gandia Hoya de Cadenas Reserva 2001 ($10). This Tempranillo varietal was lauded for its big, fruity nose, beautiful purple color and round, slightly peppery mouth feel. Copious oak, as to be expected in a Reserva. The couple of naysayers winced at a metallic finish and pedestrian balance. The host, who buys this stuff by the case, considers it to be a fabulous bargain.

2. Marques de Riscal Rioja Reserva 2000 ($18). This well-known thoroughbred was thought to be sophisticated, silky and light in body without seeming bland. In the company of the more forward wines in this bunch, this one came across as a bit too subtle to a minority, even thin.

3. Mad Dogs and Englishmen 2004 ($11). This odd blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Mourvedre makes for a compelling mouthful: full-bodied, citrusy, with a surprisingly strong finish. Everyone liked drinking this, despite the silly name.

4. Onix 2003 ($13). From Cataluyna comes this racy 50-50 blend of Garnacha and Cariñena. Several of us picked up nutty tones on the nose, cashews in particular. It won't be for everyone, and one taster thought it to be more artificial than organic.

5. Montecillo Rioja Crianza 2001 ($11). This very widely available quaff drew a wide range of opinions. Some found it to be delicious and mildly musty, with a lingering finish. Another group was put off by the lack of substance. At this price, try it for yourself.

6. Castell del Remei Gotim Bru 2001 ($10). Mostly Tempranillo, with Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon for blending, this one was perceived as one-dimensional and unexciting by the majority. For the host, from whose cellar this came, this is a fine everyday dinner wine, and very versatile for food pairing. As with all of these wines, the general quality and level of execution bears no recognizable relationship to the ridiculously low price.