Those aren't available at Firebird, which, perhaps not coincidentally, is named after the folkloric tale of an elusive, beautiful maiden. But there are a few authentically non-American treats to be had, like a golden-tinged Moldavian beef stew that is served in a ceramic pot and ceremoniously capped with a thin, curled-edged crepe. (It is also, according to the menu, supposed to come with pickled vegetables but these were MIA when we visited.) Beef stroganoff—stewed filet and sour cream simply presented on a bed of egg noodles (or, if you prefer, mashed potatoes)—is tasty and comforting. There's a similar elemental appeal in the golubtsy, translucent leaves of cabbage rolled with beef and rice seasoned with dill, onion and tangy tomato sauce, which burst open, when bitten, in sweet and sour gratification. Then there are always welcome vareniki, potato and onion pierogies sauteed in butter. More basic, and less Russian, are the chicken and pork shish kebabs and a grilled chicken breast with pineapple rings.

Dessert is presented via tray, a variety of pies and cakes from the Kiev Bakery in Brooklyn, N.Y. Outside of a cheesecake and a tuxedo cake, there are vaguely French, spongy, layered pastries in the shape of rectangular blocks—some of which involve strawberry and vanilla but all of which have at least one chocolate layer. Individually, they taste nice enough, but—like the rest of Firebird's menu --they lack the distinct character that could make them more memorable.

Firebird Deli & Grill

Wheelchair accessible. Smoking is not permitted. Reservations accepted. All major credit cards except American Express. BYOB.