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February 23-March 1, 2006

food

Feeding Frenzy

NOW SEATING
La Esperanza
40 E. Gibbsboro Rd., Lindenwold, N.J., 856-782-7114 Not since I gave my ex-girlfriend that promise ring has something tripled in size so fast. The multipart face-lift of South Jersey's "Hope" began a little over a year ago when they expanded into the property next door. Although they've had a liquor license the entire time, they now boast a full-size bar with around 20 varieties of tequila. The restaurant celebrated its grand reopening on Valentine's Day. Bite This: Esperanza's guac bursts with fresh cilantro, onion and tomato.

Shouk Restaurant & Sheesa Lounge
622 S. Sixth St., 215-627-3344 This new nightspot aims to highlight lesser-known Israeli culinary traditions. Shouk's interior was created in the Moroccan tadelakt style: all plaster walls, mountains of pillows and dramatic arches. Co-owner Yis Tigay describes the tapas-style cuisine as "refined Israeli cooking." Shahar Lubin, a notable chef in Israel, runs the kitchen. Don't forget the sheesha—$13 gets you access to hookahs and fruit-flavored tobaccos. Bite This: Tigay's confident he's got the best hummus in town. There are two varieties, one of which is served with ground beef and toasted almonds.

WAITING LIST
Dunkin' Donuts
Fourth and Spring Garden sts., www.dunkindonuts.com The only way to justify mentioning the opening of Philadelphia's six millionth DD is to tell you a bizarre anecdote. Several months back, when the company introduced its new flavored coffee syrups, City Paper received a press kit highlighting each one. But there were no sample shots or coffee beans—instead, each flavor had been converted into COLOGNE. Yup, tiny little bottles that stunk of rancid coconut java and so forth. True story: I wore toasted marshmallow to Egypt Night Club and made out with a girl who used to be a camp counselor. Eau de weird!

Govinda's Gourmet To Go
1400 South St., 215-985-9303 Govinda's is moving inches away from its current location, just off the intersection of South and Broad. Why bother? Manager Madhi Nair says he's moving to coincide with the introduction of new menus. They'll soon offer a vegan breakfast, an after-5 dinner menu and weekend brunch. Bite This: Your mornings just got a little more ethical. Try the all-vegan waffles, pancakes or French toast with a side of scrambled tofu and soy bacon.

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