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October 27-November 2, 2005

food

feeding frenzy

NOW SEATING

Firebird Grille, 4229 Main St., 215-483-2780
In Russian folklore, the firebird represents happiness, fortune and success. Russian native and FG owner Leya Gershman is banking on all three. Open since early October, Firebird features classic grilled fare (steak, chicken, shish kabob), vegetarian dishes and specialty deli sandwiches. Bite This: Gershman's favorite dish is the classic Moldovan beef stew. Served in a ceramic pot hot from the oven, this hearty dish is topped with a French crepe and accompanied by a side of pickled vegetables.

Jaba Grille & Pastries, 138 Chestnut St., 215-922-1129
As an entrepreneur who has run restaurant/grocery businesses throughout the world, Ali Tesharat is all about family ties: He runs this quickie spot with his five brothers (and a cousin, too). "My brothers were always working for somebody," says Tesharat, "and this way, they can work for themselves." When he learned that the proprietor of Old City pit stop TJ Cobblestone's was leaving the business, Tesharat snatched up the place. Jaba's menu offers authentic kebab platters, cheesesteaks, falafel and a ton of dessert items. Bite This: In about a month, Jaba will add a cozy upstairs dining area and hookah bar, making it the perfect eatery after an exhausting round of Frisbee golf. No word yet on whether they'll play The Wizard of Oz and Dark Side of the Moon at the same time — it totally matches up!


WAITING LIST

Crescent City, Ninth and South sts.
Slated for a December opening, this white-tablecloth restaurant will offer Gulf Coast cuisine and sincere Southern hospitality. Although it's named for the Big Easy, spicy Cajun dishes aren't on the menu. Instead, the food is designed to evoke thoughts of a quaint meal on a Savannah verandah. Head chef Michael Duplantis (of New Jersey's Orleans) practices an uncommon technique he calls "flavor trading," where components of a dish are combined, separated and combined again. Bite This: Duplantis pays impeccable attention to detail when preparing his signature pork tenderloin: He marinates it for several days, sears the meat to bring out the char-grill flavor, marinates it some more, then reduces the same marinade into a gravy for final presentation. Damn.

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