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October 27-November 2, 2005

food

Veg-O-Might!

Whether it's the influence of our mayor, a reaction to the gross abundance of cheesesteaks and wingbowls, or simply culinary evolution, it seems like Philly is finally becoming a truly veg-friendly city. Witness the birth of what I like to call the Meatless Passage on South 20th Street, where, in the past few months, two vegetarian restaurants have opened within blocks of one another. (Perhaps the proximity of the First Unitarian Church was a factor here: Its audience of hungry young hipsters previously had only Wawa for sustenance between rock and hip-hop acts.)

Both are great additions to the neighborhood. If you didn't know, the cute mop-topped tomato in Mama's Vegetarian restaurant's logo might tip you off to the delicious, kosher Israeli food waiting within. There's falafel, of course, crisp, moist and tangy, or thin fried disks of eggplant stuffed into pillowy rounds of fresh baked pita (the just-added whole wheat is wonderfully grit-free) or as a platter with cool chopped cucumber and tomato salad and cabbage slaw. Plates can be further embellished in true Zionist style with french fries or a few helpings of cumin-dusted carrots, browned cauliflower, hot sauce and pickles galore at the authentic condiment bar.

Gianna Jr.'s, sibling to Sixth Street's Gianna's Grille, is like Tony Luke's for the animal rights activist. You've got real cheesesteaks and bacon cheeseburgers as well as vegetarian and "veganized" sandwiches with soy cheese. Here, the mock meat comes in the form of little nuggets, a pointillist version of a chicken breast or sausage link. The favored delicacies include the Freebird, a sandwich stuffed with breaded pseudo-chicken and cheese, and the Fighting Dog Italiano, a combination of chicken and sausage with cheese and a choice of broccoli rabe or spinach. Gianna's also features a selection of vegan desserts — another triumph for the tempeh contingent, and another reason for the carnivorous to consider, at the very least, going flexitarian.

Mama's Vegetarian 18 South 20th St., 215-751-0477, www.mamasvegetarian.com
Hours: Sun., 12:30-9 p.m.; Mon.-Thu., 11 a.m.- 9 p.m.; Fri., 11 a.m.-3 p.m.
Entrees, $3.29-$6.99

  • Takeout available.

Gianna Jr.'s 106 S. 20th St., 215-568-1580, www.giannasgrille.com
Hours: Tue.-Thu., 11 a.m.-8 p.m.; Fri.-Sun., 11 a.m.-9 p.m.
Appetizers, $2.50-$5.50; entrees, $8-$17

  • Credit cards accepted.
  • Takeout and delivery available.

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