Smelt, that inexpensive, silvery fish beloved in Mediterranean climes, does not appear on many menus. They are often served whole, since most people don't enjoy deboning them. Diners in France and Italy down them bones and all when fried to a golden crisp, as they are at Southwark. This new incarnation for the corner of Fourth and Bainbridge streets promises to be a keeper.

Where Reds and Tartine faltered, husband and wife Kip and Sheri Waide have fashioned a warm, custom-built mahogany bar in the front room, where you can dine as well. They've also gussied up the long, narrow back room with beige linen tablecloths (topped with beige paper, • la francaise), soft votives and a lovely patio. When we were there, it was too steamy to eat alfresco, but another time will come I'm sure.

The restaurant seems to be favored by locals — it has that neighborhood-y vibe — but I noticed suburban types as well. Sheri, originally of Django, bakes delicious, almost sweet, bread, topped with Parmesan and served with whipped lemon butter on the side. (I loved that butter!) With a nice cocktail, it's a promising and addictive way to start a meal. Southwark also stands out with a thoughtful, brief and reasonable wine list, supervised by general manager George Costa, from which we selected a rosé from Aix en Provence, a delightful summer choice that covers all bases. Then, we were on our way.

Since the restaurant is on a summer menu now, we had to try a salad of local tomatoes with shaved fennel in a caper-tarragon dressing. In the mix of sweet, glistening tomatoes and cool fennel, the crunch of fried pancetta was palpable and clever. Warm peaches bloomed beside creamy mascarpone in another appetizer, and trendy beets came pickled with cabbage in a mustard-caraway dressing. Here's where the smelts came in, like jackstraws beneath a tapenade of capers, tomatoes and olives, and kissed with browned anchovy butter. Light in the tempura crust, they tasted fine with all the accoutrements, but could easily have stood on their own. Grape leaves, wrapped around a nugget of brie and promised but nonexistent nuts, were topped with a Concord grape white balsamic drizzle that was disappointing. Clearly this menu is original, and global as well. But I don't think that Sheri is searching for an identity — she just likes it this way. To cook whatever strikes your fancy: That is the delightful freedom of the independent chef.

Clearly, they are proud of their smoker, or why else would they have two smoked entree items? Two is too many for my taste, but my companion loved the grilled double pork loin, which was very large, and tender and moist to boot. The intricate sauce of orange-blossom honey and sweet bean glaze came together well enough to enhance the meat. Down-home and Asian influences met successfully in this sauce. The meat was perched atop cranberry beans and sported crossed swords of baby carrots for panache. Seldom do you encounter bluefish on a menu, because most people don't care for it, but this version — pan-seared over orzo and doused with anchovy butter — could win over many. Halibut is a splendid fish, and it came perfectly pan-seared with a busy salad of grapefruit, beets, radishes, baby greens and jicama glistening with a passion fruit vinaigrette. The beef rib was smoked, so I leaned towards one of my favorite things: grilled rabbit, perfectly set off by a summer stew of corn, potato, white beans and tomato — a creamy mélange. This rabbit must have been a relative of Harvey's, because it had one of the larges haunches I've ever seen, but still retained its tenderness. Rabbit, low in fat and cholesterol, is one of our most underused meats, and really tastes better than that bird to which it is always compared.

The Waides don't advertise their use of local purveyors and seasonal menu changes, but it comes as no surprise that people this creative and sensible about food are adhering to these new unwritten rules.

From the list of desserts, we could not resist homemade ice cream. We had creamy cherry vanilla full of Bing cherry bits, and a goat milk custard accompanied by berries. This light pudding balanced the saltiness and sourness of goat milk with added sugar for an intriguing combination. A dish of large "olives" came with the check; they were made of dark chocolate. Such attention to detail shows throughout the meal in the thoughtful service and all these little extra touches. I've already decided on my next meal: the farmhouse platter, which is huge and features seasonal meats, artisanal cheeses and fruits; followed by the quail, stuffed with merguez sausage and lentils. But if the seasons have changed in the meantime, I'm positive that I'll find something equally as attractive.

Southwark 701 S. Fourth St., 215-238-1888

• Dinner: Tue.-Thu., 5:30-10:30 p.m.; Fri.-Sat., 5:30-11:30 p.m. Brunch: Sun., 11 a.m.-5 p.m.
• Appetizers, $5-$14; entrees, $15-$19
• Not wheelchair accessible.
• Reservations suggested.
• All major credit cards.