May 19-25, 2005

food

Market Forces

by Tami Fertig

The stuffing. The heaping. The tossing. The twirling. Italian cooking naturally lends itself to the stage. Only last year, though, did the folks running the Italian Market Festival create a culinary platform for chefs and cookbook authors. In this year's festival, executive producer Drew Keegan promises more demonstrations and a theme: "We're working very closely with chefs to prepare recipes with ingredients raised by Pennsylvania farmers," says Keegan, "as an effort with the Department of Agriculture to educate consumers about the advantage of buying fresh local produce." Don't worry. You can still find broccoli rabe, pork and other essential goodies within state boundaries.

Throughout the weekend, on the hour, different foodies will wield pots and pans for all to watch. Saturday afternoon, Dave Lieberman, host of Good Deal on the Food Network and author of the companion cookbook Young and Hungry, will demonstrate how to shop smart in the market. "He grew up around here," says Keegan. "The Italian Market is his playground." Gianni Russo, the guy who played Carlo in The Godfather, will follow up on Sunday afternoon with plenty of singing and a little cooking to boot. Look out for chefs from nearby restaurants like Butcher's Cafe, Vesuvio, Albertino's and Anastasi, as well as JNA Institute of Culinary Arts and Kegel's Produce.

Saturday morning, a couple of very important Italians around town will participate in the Big Cheese Competition, a test of masculinity involving string-cheese stacking, cannoli stuffing, vendor calling, pizza dough tossing and karaoke -- Sinatra, of course. For everyone else, there'll be a meatball-stacking contest to win a gift certificate (but no meatballs). For eating, stop by any of the market's shops. Most will spill onto the sidewalk selling treats and offering samples. A meaty route: First to D'Angelo's -- outdoors for the first time -- for a wild boar sausage, then over to Esposito's or Cannuli's for a slab of whole roast pig. Inedible happenings up and down Ninth Street include live music (Johnny Maestro and the Brooklyn Bridge, Charlie Gracie, The Blue Notes and more), street performers, chalk artists and free Italian lessons.

Block party aside, the market will be up and running like any other weekend, reminds Keegan, so feel free to do your food shopping. "You can still get 50 pounds of chicken breast and 50 pounds of onions."

Sorrento Cheese 9th Street Italian Market Festival, Sat.-Sun., May 21-22, 10 a.m.-5 p.m., free, Ninth Street between Catherine and Wharton sts., www.9thstreetitalianmarketfestival.com.

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