Over the Moon

COMING UP POSIES: Fresh flowers adorn the tables at Moonstruck.
Photo By: Michael T. Regan

No signs of Cher, but Moonstruck shines with sophisticated Italian cuisine.

by Maxine Keyser

When Claire and Toto Schiavone closed DiLullo's in Center City, it was a boon for suburbanites. The owners threw most of their diverse attention into Moonstruck in Fox Chase, where the original DiLullo's first charmed so many people. On an inauspicious block in Fox Chase, you'd think this restaurant would be a simple trattoria, similar to the one in the movie of the same name starring Cher and Nicolas Cage. There is no resemblance, for they have retained the sophisticated air of the DiLullo's in town — little dining areas separated by etched-glass panels with industrial hanging lamps over each table. This not only decreases the noise level considerably but adds an air of intimacy that can be lacking in a larger area. The woodwork is white, there are touches of dark green throughout and fresh flowers on every table. The bar is far enough away from the dining room to enhance the feeling of calm that comes over you when you sit down and an exceedingly friendly staff takes over. Water glasses, bread with olive oil or butter, a little plate for nibbling on Toto's homemade salami and chunks of Parmigiano-Reggiano, ice-cold martinis — all seem to appear as if by magic. For a weeknight, the restaurant is practically full with middle-aged couples, younger girls having a birthday party, a group from the office — very relaxed and nonchic, but comfortable.

This is no trattoria when the menu features such delights as crabmeat in a mango-citrus vinaigrette (agro dolce) or a "bold white" salad of fennel, celery root and endive with an orange vinaigrette. We opt for carpaccio and baked oysters. The oysters are plump and savory, topped with lemon butter and shaved Parmegiano-Reggiano. The carpaccio appears ruby red and redolent of balsamic vinegar beneath a salad of cabbage, radicchio, artichokes and more cheese shavings. There is a tad too much melted cheese on the oysters and a drop too much salad on the carpaccio, but that in no way diminishes the essential goodness of the dish. The beef and oysters are sumptuous and of the best quality. My companion drinks a chardonnay with the oysters, and I have a glass of sangiovese from Emilia-Romagna (nothing fancy) with the beef.

The pasta course at Moonstruck should never be ignored. Pastas are homemade, of course, and can be had in either appetizer size or entree portion. Spinach cappeletti di carne, which resembles little green hats, is filled with a meat mixture and bears a lovely rosy sauce. Toto tells me afterward that this is his most popular pasta, and I can see why. Tortelloni di biete, truly a ravioli filled with ricotta, mascarpone, fresh mozzarella and strands of Swiss chard, is served in a simple tomato basil sauce called "salsa cruda." The sauce is so light that it simply glazes these fat little pillows, just oozing cheese. Even the soft polenta is lightened by a dash of ricotta and served with a touch of delicate tomato sauce. All the sauces are different — not just one large torrent of red sauce — and the restraint with which the dishes are handled is the trademark of a first-class chef.

Entrees present a problem, in that there are too many good ones from which to choose. Beef, pork, veal, and even calves' liver in the Venetian style are all represented. There are plenty of fish as well, including the ubiquitous bronzino, and all are dressed differently. My companion wants the roasted duck breast, which is glazed with apricots and served over a bed of fregola (Sicilian couscous), flavored with caramelized shallots and essence of fig. What a dish — sweet tender meat, some apricot slices for good measure, and fregola instead of rice or plain pasta. I go for the special of Dover sole and am rewarded with lovely filets, simply drizzled with oil and lemon, and terrific sliced potatoes cooked with fennel. Maybe the sole is a bit dry, but all the flavors meld so well that I overlook it. This time I have a glass of chardonnay, and my friend a pinot noir.

Service continues to be efficient and helpful. When I can't choose which gelato I want, I receive a little of both — grappa with golden raisins and mint chocolate chip — both wonderful in the way that makes one wonder why they bother with low-fat ice cream and all that stuff. Just a little gelato goes a long way. A cappuccino semifreddo is not very freddo, more like a mousse, and it comes with espresso and praline sauce. A complimentary taste of Toto's limoncello finishes us off completely and deliciously.

When we walk out into the quiet street after such a repast, it looks a bit like a different film, Last Year at Marienbad. It's as if all the people in the world had disappeared, but rest assured, they will be back, as will we, afflicted by what Milton called "Moonstruck madness."

Moonstruck 7955 Oxford Ave. 215-725-6000