offthemenu

by Juliet Fletcher

Joseph Scarpone, chef/owner of Sovalo, has good reason to keep his eye on the street. He and his wife, Karey, opened the Italian spot more than two months ago, bringing the charms of the seasonal-menu BYOB to 702 N. Second St. And like many new restaurants in the area, they plan to open onto the sidewalk in warm months.

"With our restaurant, all our windows open up, [so having sidewalk tables] creates a way of being part of the neighborhood, being part of the streetscape," explains Joseph. Their location in Northern Liberties doesn't stop them following the outside-seating trend of many Center City restaurants. In fact, it's an ideal way to cultivate the "casual, relaxed atmosphere" the couple hoped for.

The pavement tables then are not so much an adornment as a business necessity. And the Scarpones are not alone. Last year, L&I reported 120 active permits for outdoor tables. (Spokeswoman Andrea Swan compares that with only 32 active permits in 1998.)

Earlier this year, a Center City District report stated that numbers have doubled since 2001.

And since January this year, five more licenses have been issued. If that rate continues, it would mean an annual increase of roughly 20 permits this year alone.

One possible reason for this year's boom is the threat — now postponed — of a smoking ban for all restaurants and bars. After council's sessions on the bill, Councilman Michael Nutter claimed he would have been "pleased to exempt them." Time will tell whether the rise is related to pre-ban jitters. Meanwhile, Joseph Scarpone reckons the appeal of his restaurant's pavement cafe has a lot to do with the appeal of the street he's located on. "Whenever I'm down in Center City or South Philly picking up deliveries, there are all these cars, all this congestion. When I get back up to Northern Liberties, I'm always like, "Phew.'"

In short:

"The Brewer's Plate," a seasonal dinner including beer by 15 local brewers such as Victory, Independence and Lancaster Brewing Co., and dishes by kitchens such as Fork, Rx, White Dog and the Down Home Diner, takes over the Reading Terminal Market Sunday to raise funds for the Fair Food project. (Sun., April 10, 4 p.m., $45-$55, Reading Terminal Market, 12th and Filbert sts., 215-386-5211, ext. 102.)

The Borgata's wine-tasting dinner, "Women In Wine," will feature sommeliers such as Sybille Kuntz of the eponymous wine estate in Mosel, Germany, and Gina Gallo from Gallo of Sonoma Winery. They'll be joined by nationally renowned chefs. (Sat., April 9, 6 p.m., $150 per person, Borgata Casino, Atlantic City, N.J., 800-736-1420.)