Sicilian Boss

by Maxine Keyser

Ellen Yin, co-owner of Fork, set the stage for The Book and the Cook last week by inviting Anna Tasca Lanza, a well-known authority on Sicilian cuisine and author of The Garden of Endangered Fruit, to give us a fine taste of the foods of her rugged, sea-washed country. Seldom have I encountered a more ingredient-driven, product-conscious regional cuisine, which uses entirely what is grown indigenously and organically. Plus, with its emphasis on generations-old recipes and a commitment to combining simple flavors, Sicilian cuisine, especially as Tasca Lanza practices it, is perfect for those seeking a slow-food experience.

Our antipasti consisted of arancine, balls of saffron rice filled with prosciutto, cheese and a few peas and then deep-fried. Fried as well were the spiedini di mozzarella e acciughe, tidbits of mozzarella and anchovy all crispy with melting centers. There were also chips of chickpeas, and a focaccia made with rosemary and grapes. These were very different flavors, and it's worth noting that all these ingredients — anchovies, cheese, chickpeas and grapes — are indigenous to Sicily and play a large role in their dishes without getting repetitious. Matching the food was the wine selection. We drank a flowery Regaleali Bianco, made from inzolia, sauvignon tasca and catarratto grapes from high in the mountainous vineyards, rich in volcanic soil.

The primi piatti was a seafood salad made up of squid, shrimp and halibut with shards of fennel (another important vegetable). It was light, tender and lemon-kissed, and it paired well with a Leone D'Almerita white wine composed of inzolia and chardonnay grapes, redolent of tropical fruit.

We moved on to a ragu of tiny squab in an aromatic brown sauce accompanied by three wonderful vegetables — braised greens, potatoes stewed in olive oil, and fennel, only this time baked with cheese. We tried a thick spaghetti, tossed with cauliflower, pine nuts, currants and a hint of anchovy, a rustic dish like a map of Sicily.

Desserts were tarts — one of fresh strawberries with grappa, and one of mango and blood oranges. They were a perfect ending to a meal that might have been eaten in the Sicilian countryside. It included many of the typical elements: all of the vegetables and nuts grown there since Roman times, and some fruits, such as blood oranges (which according to Tasca Lanza were brought into Italy from Spain by the Moors). In all Tasca Lanza's books, The Flavors of Sicily, The Heart of Sicily and Herbs and Wild Greens from the Sicilian Countryside, this charming silver-haired lady brings to life exactly what her titles suggest. Reading one of these books might give you some new ideas for a homemade Italian meal, other than lasagne or meatballs. And do not ignore the Sicilian wines — they are excellent, not costly and most can be bought locally. They have been too long overlooked.