December 9-16, 2004

food

Going Live

by Elisa Ludwig

Chances are, you probably won't visit the recently opened World Café Live solely for the purpose of eating. The venue, named for David Dye's long-running radio show on WXPN, hosts the adult contemporary acts that are the station's bread and butter (so to speak). But World Café Live would like to feed you more than Lyle Lovett and late-period Sting. A full menu is available stage-side downstairs and all day at the Upstairs Live Café. The food here, though informal enough to keep attention on the music, is not an afterthought by any means.

With its long, open space, merch shop and brightly colored, spare decor, the Café has a chain-restaurant feel that confers it with a chilly kind of authority. On the plus side, the Upstairs Live Café features free musical performances, a decent list of wines by the glass, deliciously breathable air and operating hours that are as late as you can hope for in this town.

The Upstairs Live opens at 8 a.m. with a continental breakfast weekdays and a gospel brunch on Sundays, and serves lunch, dinner and bar food all night. The menu looks upscale museum cafeteria, but dishes arrive on the giant plates you ordinarily see in places with tablecloths. From the "Openers" section, the tasty flash-fried, cornmeal-coated calamari is served over a melange of warm Mediterranean olives and includes a creamy lemon aioli for dipping. The mac and cheese is just a little too far removed from the classic to be any good: Their version features orecchiete, pecorino cheese and a dusting of herbed panko. It's a dense, slickly textured monolith of whiteness.

"Headliners" are unassuming wraps, chicken cheesesteaks and a catfish po-boy with remoulade. The miniburger duo one-ups White Castle with a topping of cheddar and balsamic onions. The pretzel-crusted chicken, intriguing in the abstract, is in reality an enormous breast unenhanced by its ultimately bland breading. On the other hand, the firm haricots verts and garlic-smashed potatoes with ribbons of skin are straightforwardly pleasing.

The next time I'm at WCL, I'm heading straight for the "Encores," which are prepared by a bona fide pastry chef. The "sweet symphony" tasting plate, adorned with candied almonds and roasted strawberries, showcased treats like warm bittersweet chocolate cake with caramelized banana, homemade ice cream, and a creamy pistachio tart. It doesn't matter who's playing: The main act is usually overrated.

World Café Live 3025 Walnut St. 215-222-1400
Sun.-Wed., 8 a.m.-11 p.m.; Thu.-Sat., 8 a.m.-midnight
Appetizers, $5-$11; entrees, $7-$18
Wheelchair accessible. Smoking is not permitted. Reservations not recommended. All major credit cards.

—Respond to this article in our Forums—click to jump there