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November 18-24, 2004

food

offthemenu

Try as we might, a week from Thanksgiving, turkey's all we can think about. And local restaurants feel that way, too. Right now, you can raise your game by learning about esoteric festive birds—duck, pheasant, even quail—at New Wave Café. Chef Jason Seraydarian reprises his educational tasting menu series, presenting a crash course in game-bird cuisine. Available now throughout the holidays, the menu includes charred ostrich carpaccio or barbecue quail as appetizers and entrees such as sauteed squab with sweet-potato spaetzle or roasted pheasant with dried-cranberry wild rice. OK, we're not dwelling so much on turkey now. (Study of Game Birds menu, available through December, four courses $33, with wine $10, New Wave Café, 784 S. Third St., 215-922-8484.)

In time for Homelessness and Hunger Awareness week, Chestnut Hill College hosts the Empty Bowl Dinner tonight: Guests pick a handmade ceramic bowl, which is then filled with soup—from Italian Wedding to butternut squash varieties—made by chefs from such kitchens as White Dog Caf, Expressly Vegetarian and Tandoor India. The bowl's yours to keep as a reminder of the plight of hunger, and money goes to the Northwest Philadelphia Interfaith Hospitality Network, which gives homeless families shelter and support. Also, Mike McGrath (WHYY's "You Bet Your Garden" guru) will sign his new book, Kitchen Garden A to Z, which encourages self-sufficient cooking. (Nov. 18, 4:30-8:30 p.m., $12/$6 children, Chestnut Hill College, St. Joseph Hall Rotunda, 9601 Germantown Ave., 215-248-7031.)

Determined not to cook at home this year? Plan now for your extended family to dig into Thanksgiving dinner at Radisson Plaza-Warwick, served in a private dining room. Traditional dishes are updated: green beans are served with cashew butter, and bread pudding is slathered in bourbon sauce. (Nov. 25, $39/$22 children, Radisson Plaza-Warwick, 1701 Locust St., 215-789-6120.) Meanwhile, now's your last chance to nab a gourmet holiday pie and give to MANNA while you're at it. Their "Pie in the Sky" fund-raiser offers pies to order until tomorrow, ready for pick-up on Nov. 23 and 24. Choose from Southern pecan, apple, pumpkin, sweet potato or a specially concocted pecan cheesecake. ($25 each, call 1-866-SKY-PIES to order.)

In short:

Odette's in New Hope has now reopened after the Delaware River's extensive flooding during Hurricane Ivan forced its closure. Chef Kevin Herbe, has spent the time planning his fall menu and a new "dusk menu" of early-evening dishes. (Odette's, South River Rd., New Hope, 215-862-3000.)

Fork notes the arrival of the season's first bottled wine, Beaujolais Primeur, with a five-course dinner of Beaujolais regional cuisine. (Nov. 18, $50, Fork, 306 Market St., 215-625-9425.)

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