offthemenu

by Juliet Fletcher

It's not the first time that a local restaurant took on the mantle of promoting farm-fresh produce or suggested their dishes could be actually good for you. But Farmicia may be the first to attempt to unite those two philosophies.

Farmicia, which opened two weeks ago, is the newest venture by the well-known pair associated with Metropolitan Bakery, James Barrett and Wendy Smith Born. Joining them is Kevin Klause, who worked as executive chef at West Philly's White Dog Café. His old workplace is regarded as a local pioneer of the trend for organic, regionally produced meat, vegetables and fruit.

The name of the new restaurant (situated where Novelty used to stand) links the trendy "farm" element with the slightly more serious idea of health. It's long been a tacit principle in fine dining that, by the time guests are seated at a fancy table, they've already decided not to eat healthily. Farmicia definitely rejects that. Its menu offers portions in small, medium or large "doses." In addition, Klause says that vegetables have been given more prominence and will be transformed into some creative vegetarian entrees.

But what about the other most enjoyable aspect of dining—beverages? The new premises also include Beakers Bar, where drinkers can order organic wines and, fitting with the apothecary feel, a range of signature herbal tonics. But, because it still knows it's based in Old City, the bar offers those same healthy tonics mixed with spirits, for those for whom cocktails are essential nutrition. (15 S. Third St., 215-627-6274.)

In Short:

If you're the type to fact-check every restaurant you visit, you'll want to pick up a copy of the newly conceived International Who's Who of Chefs (www.international-chefs.com, $80), published for 2004-2005. Amid the 3,000 neatly organized bios and histories of these eminent cooks, there are reasons for local pride: No fewer than 11 Philly chefs take their place in the volume. These include Robert Patton of the Restaurant School; Will Goldfarb recently of Morimoto; Guillermo Pernot of ÁPas'on!; Anthony Bonett recently of Opus 251; and Dominique Filoni of Savona. Signature recipes will also be included.

Feel like getting out of the junior leagues? Want to experience some serious frozen stuff, definitely on the rich and creamy end of the scale? Then Franklin Fountain is waiting for you—where owners Ryan and Eric Berley offer sundaes and scoops from a little "saloon" as traditional as candy canes. (116 Market St., 215-627-1899.)